Dogtalk

Bloody Footprints

2012-02-09T23:52:00.001-07:00

It seems to happen every year around this time. The snow gets crusty. You break through a sharp skin of ice with every step you take across the yard or field It's awkward, but at least it doesn't hurt your feet because you're wearing boots. Your dog, on the other hand, is running barefoot across the same icy snow. His toenails dig into the glass-like surface, and every so often his feet break through too. When he returns the ball you threw for him, you notice that his footprints are bloody. Like you, your dog needs boots if he's to negotiate this snow and ice without injuring his feet.

This past week, both Angus and Lizzie have left bloody footprints atop the crusted snow in our yard. The bloodiness is at the base of several of their toenails, front and back. When they run to chase a thrown ball, they put everything they have into it, digging into the icy shards with their nails and abrading the tender cuticles raw. They don't even notice any discomfort till they get inside. That's when they start licking the sore toes. If left unchecked, the licking is enough to further aggravate the situation and lead to even larger sores. These, in turn, can take forever to heal because of the constant irritation and wetness caused by licking. It's a vicious cycle that need never start if we take proper precautions to begin with.

That means boots. You wear them. If your dog is primarily an indoor dweller like you, he should probably wear them too.

Dog boots are easy to find on the internet these days. Just Google the subject and you'll find dozens of links to various dog boot manufacturers. To find the boots best for your dog's breed and activity level, you can consult a vet or a doggy day care provider. (Many doggy daycares now put disposable boots on their canine clients' paws to protect them from the rigors of all-day dog play with their chums.)

Don't expect your dog to love his boots the first time you put them on him. He'll high-step like a cartoon dog whose feet are stuck to flypaper. He may even try to chew them off. But keep him diverted, get him interested in something else, and within minutes your dog will be running and playing, oblivious to the foreign objects on his feet.

The boots need not stay on all day if your dog spends most of his time indoors with you. But do boot him up if you're planning an extended romp in the snow and on the ice. Besides protecting his feet from ice cuts, the boots will also be barriers between his feet and salty snow-melt chemicals on the sidewalks and roads.

If your dog does experience some cutting/ abrading, and other minor injuries from walking barefoot in the snow and ice, get him back inside and use a warm water rinse or soak to clean the bloody areas. Next, pat dry and apply a small amount of triple antibiotic or Panalog ointment to the affected areas. Then let your dog rest somewhere in the house, within sight of you. If he should start to lick his paws. try putting socks over the sore paws--or boots, if you have them--and help him forget about his feet by giving him a loaded Kong or other goodie to occupy his mind.

Meanwhile look for ice-clear areas where you can walk or play with your dog. Contain your fetching games to parks free of snow, or to large indoor areas open for dog play. And of course, Doggy Day Care is a great boredom reliever this time of year, when weather keeps us dogwalkers inside.

If your dog has boots, on the other hand, neither of you has an excuse to not enjoy the late-winter weather. Just ask your dog, and he'll tell you how much fun you both can have with a rousing game of fetch off the icy snowbanks!

Dogs don't "get even"

2011-12-26T14:30:00.004-07:00

Donna told me her dog "gets even" with her whenever she has to leave him home alone for a few hours.

"He'll run out the door as soon as I get home and then he'll go over to the woodshed and stand there and bark at me. Then he won't come in when I call him. He just barks and wags his tail and plays his keep-away game. He gets mad at me when I leave him, and that's how he gets back at me."

"Donna," I offered, "he's not doing it to get even with you. Dogs don't think that way."

"Mine does," she insisted. "He's always done that. He does not like it when I leave him!"

He's always done that.
He does not like it when I leave him!

Both statements are probably correct. But to chain them together, in a cause-and-effect way, is to create a false premise. Granted, dogs usually aren't happy when we leave them home alone. However, Donna's mistake is to connect his unhappiness with what she perceives to be a willful, vengeful, premeditated act. As human-like and intelligent as our dogs may seem to us, they simply don't think that way...which says a lot for dogs, if you really think about it. Only humans, with consciences, are spiteful enough to plan revenge. Dogs are blessed to live life "in the moment." When Donna is gone, her dog is unhappy. When Donna returns, the unhappiness is forgotten and replaced with an outburst of energy. Some dogs maul their owners upon return. Some pee. Others grab an object in their mouths and race around the room. Some will, spontaneously and without provocation, start a three-second fight with other pets in the household. Others, like Donna's, will run outside and play keep-away. All of these are simply outbursts of pent-up energy, as natural as the fizz that spurts out of a shaken soda can.

When Donna's dog does this, she probably reacts in a way that gratifies the dog for his behavior. Any attention she shows him, whether positive or negative, suits the dog, who's just glad to have her back home. Since habits develop quickly, the dog's keep-away behavior is now simply routine. It's an outburst of energy and represents no malicious thoughts of revenge on the dog's part.

Reshaping the behavior would be pretty easy. Donna could meet him at the door with a treat in her hand and ask him to sit until she got inside, closed the door behind her, and was able to offer him a follow-up treat. She could also teach the dog to "curb" at the door when she opens it. The easiest and most universally successful approach for most people in similar situations is to simply ignore the dog for the first few minutes of their arrival home.

When dog owners misinterpret their dogs' behaviors, communication and understanding break down. Frustration ensues, and the situation often worsens. "Anthropomorphism" is that mouthful that means "attributing human characteristics and behaviors to animals." While the dogs who share our lives seem pretty human to all of us, we must remember that their brains process information as animals, without a sense of "yesterdays," "tomorrows," or "what ifs." Without a sense of "tomorrow," there's no reason to "plan ahead" with schemes of revengeful acts. There is only the here and now.

Actually, that's pretty darn intelligent thinking, isn't it!

Re-naming your dog: Should you do it?

2011-12-04T22:30:00.006-07:00

"I don't like my dog's name and I'd like to change it. Can I do that?"

Of course you can do that; you can call your dog anything you want.

"Should I do that?"

Aha....now that's an entirely different question. The answer is a nice, safe, "It depends."

See if you can identify with any of the following scenarios.

1. You just adopted a five-year-old dog from the shelter. He spent most of his time in the back yard of a busy young family. Records indicate his name has always been "Toby." You're not crazy about that name because it just doesn't suit his personality. Plus, he doesn't seem to respond well to it. You play around with some other names, bouncing various vowel/consonant combinations off him to see which make his ears perk up. If you find a name that rings your bell and his, should you change it?

Yes...you can certainly consider it. The dog who doesn't respond much to his own name either has a bad association or not much association with it at all. Maybe it's his personality, but chances are it's the way the name has been used during his lifetime. If it doesn't turn him on, and he does respond more positively to a different name, go ahead and change it.

One of my nieces announced to her parents when she was 10 years old that she wanted to change her name from Madelaine to Cary. She was so insistent that they obliged her. Forty years later, she has no regrets. For some reason she detested the name Madelaine and simply felt it didn't fit her at all. A new name made a world of difference to her. It could be the same with your dog.

2. You just adopted a five-year-old dog from the shelter. She's spent her whole life with a loving elderly couple who now live in an assisted living center that doesn't allow dogs. Records indicate her name is Sophie, but you hate that name because it reminds you of an old grouchy aunt. You'd really like to change it to Stella. The dog you adopted, however, is a sensitive girl who seems eager to please but somewhat timid. When you say "Sophie," her tail wags and her ears lay back in an expression of soft submission. Should you change her name?

No....this dog has lost everything she ever had except her name. If she responds to it with positive body language, let her keep the name. It will be a great comfort to hear the familiar sound of her own name spoken in a friendly way here at this new home that's probably a bit scary to her. It will help her bond with you.

3. You just adopted a five-year-old dog from the shelter. She's spent a happy life with a young female soldier who's being deployed and can't keep the dog. Records indicate her name is Lulu, but you'd like to change it to "Tula," because you just think it sounds better. Lulu seems to be a pretty well-adjusted dog. Should you change her name?

You can probably swap these names fairly painlessly, since they share the same vowel and number of syllables. In other words, they sort of sound alike already. If you play name games with Lulu, sometimes alternating "Lulu" with "Tula," and then decreasing your use of "Lulu," you can change the name to "Tula" without confusing or offending the dog.

My examples have been with adult dogs. Changing a puppy's name is easy, since the old name generally has little or no history behind it. Puppies are extremely adaptable to changing conditions. Do practice saying the contemplated new name out loud, as if you're calling the dog from across a park. Is it easy for you to say when you're excited or agitated? Is it distinguishable from other command commands? "Oakley" is another great name, but it's hard to use "okay" as a release since "Oakley, okay!" sounds kind of confusing. I once knew a dog named "Ono," which made use of the common reprimand "No!" rather awkward. Other tongue twisters I recall from past students were "Epiphany," "Tinkerbelle" and "Thelonius," although the owners used "Piph," "Tink," and "Theo" as call names, which makes perfect sense. One or two syllables are best. Using a combination of contrasting vowel sounds (Angus, Lizzie, etc.) makes the name even easier to distinguish outside at a distance. If you plan to do agility, herding or other performance sports where speed is required, plan to use a one-syllable name or nickname since you might not have time to spit out more than that when your dog is running full-throttle.

When you're contemplating changing your dog's name, take into consideration all of the following:

Does the dog seem to like his old name?
Does the dog even care about his old name?
Has the dog come from a stable environment where the old name was used consistently and positively?

Changing your dog's name should benefit the dog, not you. His name should make him happy, get his attention, and give comfort. If his old name doesn't do these things, a new name could be a new start for him.

Miracle Drug for Dogs

2011-11-02T15:36:00.001-06:00

Cindy's thinking of getting rid of her six-month-old terrier because he's too high energy for her and, thus, seems to have a difficult time learning and taking her seriously.

David and his wife are senior citizens. They're considering re-homing their young Lab because he's "overly affectionate" and bumps them around in their small home.

Kay and her husband Dick think their female border collie needs psychotropic meds because she's so destructive and bratty in their large old home, located in a downtown area.

Shelters are overflowing with dogs surrendered by owners who didn't want them anymore because of their behavior problems, which the owners were not interested in dealing with.

Shelters, meds, and behavior modification training are seldom the answer. Every one of the above-mentioned dogs could be reformed--yes, even the urban border collie--if the owners provided just one thing for them:

ADEQUATE EXERCISE

Let's define some terms:

"EXERCISE": prolonged physical activity that elevates the heart rate to a level that can be safely and beneficially sustained for 20-40 minutes. Examples: brisk walking or running, with no stops that would slow down heart and respiratory rates. For dogs, that means leash-walking at the owner's sustained pace, swimming, playing frisbee, safely accompanying moving objects like horses and bicycles, or spending the time on an indoor treadmill.
"ADEQUATE": an amount of exercise that will tire your dog. At the end of such activity, he should be glad for the opportunity to lie down and rest. For an old dog with arthritis, that may mean a trip to the mailbox. For a young healthy dog it could mean going for a six-mile run with you. Read your dog, taking into account his age, physical condition, and the weather.

Good news: Most dogs, since they're grossly underexercised to begin with, can benefit greatly from short exercise sessions of 15-20 minutes.

Bad news: As your dog gets into better shape, he will require more exercise to maintain or improve his condition.

How this helps behavior problems: Dogs are bundles of energy, which must be expended one way or another if the dog is to stay sane. Fortunate dogs (those with good owners) expend this energy on daily leash walks or hikes. Less fortunate dogs (with unmotivated owners) expend the same energy digging holes in the back yard, tearing up furniture, and destroying anything they can get their teeth on in the home or yard. One way or another, the energy must be released and dissipated or it will blow, just like the lid on a pan of boiling water.

A physically tired dog has a calm mind. Through physically taxing exercise, his body produces endorphins that produce a pleasurable sense of calm--a "runner's high," as they used to call it. A calm mind is able to think. It's less reactive. It's more receptive to learning. (That's why Cesar Millan, The Dog Whisperer, preaches "Exercise, Discipline, and Affection" as the dog's three basic needs, in that order.)

Which dog would you rather have? Well...it doesn't really matter. You can only have the good dog if you're willing to be the good owner.

It may seem easier to pop a mind-adjusting pill into your dog's mouth than to get up in the dark at 5:30 and take your dog for a walk. It may seem easier to let someone else fix your dog, whether that means behavior modification lessons or surrendering him to a shelter. But it's YOUR DOG. YOUR RESPONSIBILITY. If you want the dog of your dreams, instead of your nightmares, get your boots and warm clothes on, grab a leash, call your dog, and start walking.

If you won't do this....you have no right to complain!

How often should I bathe my dog?

2011-10-23T21:52:00.001-06:00

Note: I usually author everything on this blog, but I got lazy and found this great article that says what I'd like to say about bathing your dog. It's from Dr. Shawn Messonier, a well known holistic vet in Texas. You can check out his website at www.petcarenaturally.com, and catch Dr. Shawn's weekly radio show on Sirius Radio (the Martha Stewart channel). -- JM

Pet owners often ask how often they should bathe their pets. Unfortunately, many people still believe the old wives tale that says you shouldn't bathe your pet more than once or twice a month. According to some, more frequent bathing might harm your pet's skin or coat.

However, this old wives tale is nothing more than an urban legend, and is not based upon any medical fact. While some shampoos, typically those made of harsh chemicals, can dry out your pet’s skin or coat if used too frequently, organic shampoos containing natural oils are safe to use whenever needed.

I recommend bathing your pet at least whenever the pet gets dirty or smelly, on average at least weekly.
Some pets should be bathed more frequently. For example, those pets with skin diseases (allergies, infections, ringworm, mange, etc.) should be bathed more often, even daily if necessary. I have discovered that when my patients with skin diseases are bathed frequently, they usually do not require conventional medications in the treatment of their skin diseases. When they do require conventional medications, they usually require much less medication due to their frequent bathing schedule using an organic herbal shampoo with natural oils.

And don't forget about the important health benefits to you and your family members when you bathe your pets frequently….Pets that are bathed frequently are cleaner and less likely to cause you and other members of your family to suffer unnecessarily from allergies, asthma, and other respiratory problems.

Think of it this way. Your pet’s hair acts like a rug, trapping dirt, bacteria, fungi, and allergens. Allergens are foreign proteins such as dander, house dust mites, saliva, bug droppings, molds, and tree and grass pollens. These allergens stay on your pet's skin and hair until they are washed away. The longer they stay on your pet’s skin and hair, the more likely they are to cause your pet to itch. And if you or any family members suffer from allergies or chronic respiratory problems, your pet’s skin and hair serve as an important source of your discomfort until these allergens are washed away. Therefore, I recommend bathing your pet frequently if your pet or any of your family members suffers from allergies or respiratory problems.

If you're still bathing your pet with harsh chemical shampoos, it's time to make the switch.

Dog humps husband's ear

2011-10-01T08:25:00.003-06:00

Dear Jan,
We have an 8-year-old rescued border collie. He was adopted by us at age 1 year, was immediately neutered, and was a farm dog before he arrived to us.

He has a consistent, nightly habit that we are wondering about...when my husband and I go to bed, Buddy jumps up on the bed, heads straight for my husband, sticks his nose in my husband's ear and tries to hump him, for lack of a better description. His nose must find my husband's ear or it doesn't seem to count. We tell him "no" and make him get down every night but it only delays the inevitable. Once we shut the light off, he is on the bed like a boomerang and gives it a go. If my husband hides his head, then Buddy waits. When he tells him "no" he will again listen momentarily but then waits til we aren't paying attention again. This seriously happens every night, has been a longtime battle and he only attempts this with my husband.

Do you have an answer as to why he is doing this, or how we can curb this urge he has? If my husband doesn't catch him and he is successful, he quits, leaves the bed and sleeps on his side on the floor. We are quite tired of the game, but more importantly, we would love to know what this behavior is exhibiting. After having performed rescue for 6 years with border collies, I tend to lean that it's an alpha thing but really would like someones input on it.

Lori

Hi Lori,
Dogs are a kick, aren't they! The word that jumped out at me from your email was "habit." Consistent, nightly. Bingo.

This is a ritual that I'm guessing got its start when he was an adolescent. Lots of dogs "hump" things on a human bed, some "mark" it by peeing (even females). Dogs pick up on the energy and the intense hormone exchange that happens between humans there, and it seems to trigger a reaction to mimic. We have an 18-month-old Lab, very sweet and submissive, who will jump up on our bed and hump pillows when we leave him home alone for a few hours. It's a fairly consistent but harmless behavior, so we haven't taken any measures to correct it...thus, it perpetuates. We have a sweet female pit bull who consistently humps the male Lab in the kitchen each night while we're eating diner at the table. Again....no great harm, somewhat humorous, so we haven't bothered to permanently stop it. I suspect that's what's going on with your border collie. His hormones initially triggered the action, and he didn't get an effective correction for doing it (in fact, he probably got some positive reinforcement, even though you didn't mean to...like hiding under the covers....that makes it a game). Now he does it without even giving it much thought.

Have you ever played an internet game like "Bejeweled"? It's easy to get sucked into playing "just one more, and just one more" of these fairly mindless games because there's something addictive (satisfying) about playing them. When you click on "Play Again," you do it so quickly and reflexively that you're not even thinking about it. If, however, you experienced a really strong negative reaction the next time you hit "Play Again"--like, your keyboard shocked you--you'd THINK about it next time and make the decision not to hit "Play Again."

If you really want to eliminate your dog's bedtime behavior you can do it in about three nights without much effort. All the dog needs is a very immediate and explosive correction the next three times he does it, and he will choose to stop doing it. Your husband should be ready for the moment he jumps up. The second he's up there, husband turns into a big roaring grizzly, sits up and bounces the dog off the bed with a swing of his forearm. When dog is on the floor, husband praises him in a normal tone of voice to reinforce the floor behavior. Dog will try it again...same reaction from husband, maybe even stronger. Repeat the praise when dog is on the floor. Husband lies awake in the dark for a while, waiting. IF the dog tries a third time, same scenario. The dog will start engaging his decision-making process and choose to stay on the floor.

Let me know if this works. Don't be afraid of offending the dog or hurting his feelings. You won't. Feelings and emotions have nothing to do with this humping behavior, and your dog will be happy to oblige your wishes. Your dog will learn to exercise self control the same way humans do--by making behavior choices based on the consequences of their previous actions.

Jan

The BIG QUESTION

2011-09-20T16:33:00.000-06:00

My friend Carlene was telling me about the dog that used to live down the street from her. The dog spent its puppyhood and young adulthood outside on a chain, without shelter and most of the time without water. Mom and Dad both worked, and the young kids just weren't interested in spending time with the dog. Fortunately some concerned neighbors like Carlene intervened, and the dog went to a local no-kill shelter before being re-homed in a better place.

You have to wonder why those bad owners got the dog in the first place. I suspect they got it thinking they needed a "family dog" for their kids because "that's what you do," or because the dog would look good in the annual Christmas photo. The dog was probably purchased as a toy, like a fishing boat or a snowmobile, but with much less forethought.

If I'd been the breeder interviewing this family before selling them this dog, I would have asked one question that would tell me everything I needed to know about them.

"What is your goal for this dog?"

They probably would have responded with a blank stare and a "Goal? I don't know, I guess we just think a dog would be good for the kids."

And I would have sent them on their way, without the dog.

Some passing answers might have been,

"I want him to be a hunting dog."
"I want him to be a good dog for my kids to play with." (Note: Not the same as "...a dog would be good for the kids.")
"I want to do agility and/or obedience competition with him."
"I want him to be a therapy dog."
"I'd like him to guard the property."
"I'd like to to Search and Rescue with her."
"I just want a well behaved dog we can take anywhere."

Stating a goal is stating an intention. With dogs, the intention implies that the owner(s) are committed to working with the dog to achieve the goals. A well behaved family dog doesn't just happen naturally. It happens only if the owners are resigned to training and molding the dog into what they want and need. The training starts the day you bring the dog home. All too often, training gets postponed until the dog becomes so uncontrollable that training becomes an insurmountable task. That's when dogs end up on chains in back yards, ignored and uncared for.

Next time you're helping a family member or friend choose a dog, ask them the million-dollar question. "What is your goal for the dog you plan to get?" That could be the start of a lively, fruitful dialogue that could have a major impact on lives, human and canine.

He peed on me!!!!!

2011-06-23T13:38:00.002-06:00

Angus and I had just finished our weekly obedience session with him and four dog buddies at my friend Connie's house. We were all standing outside in her front yard, and Connie decided to let her older male dog out of the house to say hi to the rest of us. Charlie, a border collie mix, came bounding out, happy and confident as can be. He went from person to person, sniffing and wagging.

Apparently my sweet little Angus, 14 months old, was a bit intimidated by this new, boisterous male dog. The hair on his neck went up just a bit, and he ducked in behind my right leg. Instinctively I gave his leash a friendly tug to encourage him to move up and not hide behind me. He moved up and stood quietly next to me. Three seconds later I sensed a warm wetness on my lower right leg, and I looked down to see (horrors!) Angus LIFTING HIS LEG ON MINE!!!

Talk about shock and awe from both parties! I let fly a few loud words that made him want to suck back everything he'd already squirted. At that point I had to turn my head away from him so he wouldn't seem me laugh, because his expression told all; even HE was mortified by what he'd done!

My very innocent young boy had momentarily let instincts take over while his self control flew out the window. He had "marked" me as his own, just in case that very friendly new male dog decided to come over and put the moves on me. It was totally inappropriate behavior, but was explainable under the circumstances. Given the negative outcome, I'm quite sure he won't repeat the offense.

I've been peed on before, but never with such submission and innocence. The first time it was a very bull-headed, intact male Dalmation who became somewhat notorious around his upscale Yakima neighborhood. I was conducting a private lesson at his owner's home. "Spot" and I had already had a couple serious talks about his behavior on the leash, and I was standing there smugly explaining things to the owner when I felt the wet sprinkle on my leg. Needless to say, my ego deflated as I realized I had more work cut out for me than I had planned! Unlike Angus, Spot had marked me with disdain. He was telling the world (and me) in no uncertain terms that he owned the house and everything in it, including the visitors. It was the largest insult a dog could give.

A similar thing happened in a group class at Manning Dog Training a few years later. While using a new student's male dog (neutered) to demonstrate a leadership exercise, the dog hiked his leg on my shoe. Like Angus, this was a laugher too, and it really broke the ice in the class and gave me the opportunity to explain some "whys" and "hows" to the students as it was turned into a light-hearted teaching moment.

Many people find the subject of "marking" a bit repulsive because of its connotations of dominance, ownership and territoriality. The thought of anything (or anyone) urinating on you is pretty disgusting. But dogs are not people; they're animals with strong instincts and generally weak self control. A dog who marks inappropriately is revealing something about his needs for better leadership, more mental challenges, more exercise, more socialization, and better boundaries.

By the way, marking isn't limited only to intact males. Neutered dogs do it too, as do females (yes, a female may even hike her leg, or just squat). Marking boundaries--corners of buildings, car tires, etc.-- in the presence of other dogs is quite common. Many dogs will also immediately re-mark over a previous dog's tinkle....it's the dog way of "having the last word." But this behavior should never be excused or tolerated if it's done in the wrong setting (i.e., indoors) or against the wrong backstop (a human leg)!

Point/Counterpoint: You Decide

2011-06-08T22:59:00.001-06:00

Norlene is 67. Her husband died from a heart attack last week, leaving her in emotional and financial disarray. Her world has been turned upside down. She has her own set of health problems; she is frail and unstable on her feet. Her primary exercise is from a treadmill.

Norlene's husband left her with a five-year-old miniature Schnauzer named Bailey. This was very much her husband's dog, his baby, and his companion. Norlene had little to do with her, although the dog did sleep in bed with them each night. Bailey has no leash manners or training, and is stout enough that Norlene can't comfortably or safely walk her. Bailey barks a lot when people come over, which is happening a lot since her husband passed away. Norlene has a friend who comes over and walks Bailey outside three times a day.

Norlene's trying to decide whether to keep Bailey or re-home her. She says, "I love Bailey, but...."

The decision is never easy, and there is no right or wrong answer. But what do you think? Some day you or a relative might be in this situation. It's worth thinking about...ahead of time.

POINT: Norlene should re-home Bailey

This poor woman has enough on her plate already. She never personally bonded with the dog the way her husband did. She's not even a "dog person." Caring for Bailey is a physical struggle, since Norlene can't even walk her outside (and doesn't want to). The barking is an agitation that Norlene doesn't need right now, as she's trying to sort out her life. Bottom line: both Bailey and Norlene would be better off if Bailey were re-homed. It should be easy for Norlene to find a really good, loving home for Bailey. There are organizations ready to help screen prospective owners and place her in an appropriate setting. Bailey will live a fuller, richer life elsewhere, getting more exercise and unconditional love. Norlene will be freed to pick up the pieces of her life without being burdened by the dog. There is no reason for Norlene to feel guilt or obligation to keep Bailey, particularly if she can provide her with a better life elsewhere.

COUNTERPOINT: Norlene should keep Bailey

It's been only a week since her husband passed away. Norlene should not make any hasty or radical moves for a couple more weeks, given her fragile and emotionally desperate state. When thing settle down, she should choose to keep Bailey, and she'll probably develop a true love for her. Bailey is the one heartbeat that still ties her to her departed husband. Without Bailey, she would be totally alone. Chances are, she and Bailey will finally bond more closely than ever. She can get in-home training for her and Bailey, and help mold her into the dog that she can live with and enjoy. The dog will also give her reason to get up in the morning and reason to start walking outside. This will be physically and emotionally good for Norlene, and Bailey will live a good life in her original home environment. Bailey sleeps in bed with Norlene now. To be without her at this time could be really awful, making the impact of Norlene's loss even worse. Bailey will be a true comfort and blessing to Norlene as time passes.

Worth considering: "Re-homing Bailey" was my first suggestion to Norlene. It is the less emotional, more hard-nosed and streamlined approach, which I often tend to take. On the other hand, "Norlene should keep Bailey" is the idealistic approach, but I know it's totally possible and potentially life-enriching for Norlene, if things go the right way.

What do you think? By the way, Norlene is my sister-in-law.
Feel free to leave comments.

Thanks for the Joplin donations

2011-05-31T15:27:00.001-06:00

During our drive to ship Flint River Ranch pet food to the Humane Society in tornado-devastated Joplin last week, some of my customers generously shipped a total of 240 pounds of dog food and 20 pounds of cat food.

A big thank you goes out to Cande, Jack and Tucker, Dean, Ruth, Linda, Dottie, and Laurie. Thanks to your contributions, the Joplin shelter now has a good supply of pet food to see them through part of this crisis situation. I checked their website just this morning. They now are housing 375 "tornado pets." Here are a couple pictures....one, an injured Yorkie not yet reunited with its family. The other, the makeshift shelter.

Thanks again.

Tornado dog crawls home on broken legs

2011-05-27T08:12:00.001-06:00

BIRMINGHAM, Ala. (CNN/WBRC) - A tornado picked him up and blew him away, but his will to live was so strong he crawled home on two broken legs and survived for two weeks before his family found him.
Meet Mason. It only takes one look to know he's been through a lot in the last couple of weeks. And while his happy but haunted eyes and halting crawl tell us something about his story, his owners helped the Birmingham Jefferson County Animal Control shelter fill in the rest.

On April 27, Mason was hiding in a garage in North Smithfield when a storm picked him up and blew him away. His owners couldn't find him and had about given up when they came back to their home and garage on Monday to sift through debris. They found Mason waiting for them on the porch.
"He's got two broken legs and they're distal radial unal fractures. They've not been able to be in alignment so neither one of them have healed so he had to crawl on two broken legs to get home," said Dr. Barbara Benhart with the shelter.

"This is probably the most dramatic we've seen as far as an injury in an animal that's survived this long. It's kind of tapering off, the amount of animals we're seeing because of the storm. For an animal just to show up on someone's porch after this time was pretty remarkable, especially with the condition he's in," added Phil Doster, also with the shelter.
Mason's owners asked the shelter to take him because they're not able to care for him while they try and piece their lives back together.

"For an animal to go through what he's gone through and not to be ugly, to be happy for any companionship is remarkable. We're honored to be part of his recovery," said Doster.

Now with a little luck and a lot of love, Mason may become a mascot for storm survivors, both on four legs and two legs.

Sorry, but your dog IS fat!

2011-05-19T15:32:00.001-06:00

Today I saw the fattest chihuahua I've ever seen. This happened in my chiropractor's parking lot. He looked like an engorged tick sporting a red kerchief around a nondescript neck that led to a tiny head.. He left his beaming owner and trotted over to me, as friendly as can be.

"You're a cutie," I said to him with a chuckle. "Looks like you eat real well too!" My comment was meant for the owners to hear. I didn't want to come out and say, "You're the fattest chihuahua I've ever seen." People do take offense at stuff like that. "He's a real chunk," I tried again, hoping to start a light-hearted dialogue about the dog's weight.

His owner just laughed and replied, "Oh, he's actually not overweight. He weighs 12 pounds. The vet says he's just right. All he eats is lean pork, every day." And too much of it, I thought. But I didn't comment further. It was a lost cause.

People seem to be as blind about their dogs' weight as they are their kids'. There are way too many FAT kids around these days, but people seem afraid to say it straight-out. Instead, they say things like, "Oh, he's big-boned," or "Yup, he's a big guy, but he's solid," or "It's just baby fat." Or the best yet: "She's 'healthy.'"

"Fat" is becoming the new "f-word" or "n-word." Pretty soon you probably won't be able to use it as an adjective anymore because it will be considered hate speech. Yet it very succinctly defines a condition...one affecting way too many dogs (and people). Like humans, overweight dogs are at higher risk for heart attacks, diabetes, strokes, and a multitude of other crippling, life-shortening maladies.

I'm not sure why so many vets seem to fib to their clients about their dogs' true weight conditions. If you asked a vet how to determine weight condition without a scale, she'd tell you to run your hands lightly over the dog's sides. You should be able to FEEL RIBS with a light caress. If you can't, then there's a potentially deadly layer of fat entombing your dog's innards and impeding his ability to move, make his heart beat, and even breathe with ease. The other way is of course to just LOOK at the subject. Need I say more?? I suppose vets understand the sensitivity of the "overweight" issue and, like some human doctors, are too darn diplomatic to just come out and say you (or your dog) are overweight. They'll instead say gently, "It wouldn't hurt to lose a few pounds" or "Try to get more exercise." I do wish they'd all tell us their expert opinions. After all, that's what we're paying them for.

Dogs don't get fat from eating two small meals a day! They get fat from treats under the table, treats for this and that, treats from strangers, and meal portions that are way larger than they need. They pre-wash dishes and pans for the dishwasher. They may also scarf treats from the cat's dish, or even journey to the neighbors for a daily handout. They get it from rituals we all enjoy--popcorn tossing, "shredded cheese from heaven," licking the ice cream bowl. Just remember that these calories count too...just like the calories in the "broken cookie" we may snitch for ourselves.

Next time you're tempted to do something really loving for your dog, take him for a walk or toss the ball a few times. In addition to enjoying the moment, you'll be investing in a healthy future for him.

How we feed at the Manning house (the true story)

Dogs get up at 6am. Lizzie the pit bull gets 3/4 cup of Flint River Ranch Trout & Sweet Potato kibble. Angus the Lab gets about 1 1/2 cups of the same.

Throughout the day, the dogs get nothing, unless I'm doing some agility training with them. In that case, they may get a total of a small handful of kibble. I use Flint River Ranch Puppy & Adult Dog Kibble as treats, because the dogs love it so much. Once in a while I'll grab a Flint River Ranch Lamb & Millet cookie and break that up into many small pieces. I can make one cookie into at least 10 treat morsels.

While I'm making salad for dinner, I give the dogs the wilted lettuce leaves. They love them.

Angus gets to lick my husband's ice cream bowl later in the evening. Occasionally the dogs may get a small morsel of kibble to bribe them to go outside for final potty.

And that's it.

A couple weeks ago Angus went with Don to the trap club, where someone gave Angus several grocery-store-brand dog biscuits. He had diarrhea and gas for a day or so. Not a good thing! I generally don't let my dogs accept treats from people unless they're the super high-quality stuff that we run into at agility trials and dog shows. Even then, one morsel is the limit.

And oh yes...our dogs are happy and healthy, and they do know we love them! We just show it other ways besides with food.

Lizzie's New Treat

2011-04-23T20:51:00.001-06:00

Lizzie's new chew-things came in the mail yesterday: they're real deer antlers! Flint River Ranch, the dog food company I proudly represent, has added these great new dog treats to its inventory.

The antlers are "natural sheds" found in the wild. This means no deer had to die...they simply shed their antlers each year as they are supposed to. They're from North American white-tail deer. They're clean and odor-free and totally edible--although it will take your dog a long time to go through one.

I've long been an advocate of old-fashioned "Nylabones," and I still am. But these antlers are several notches up in value, yet virtually the same price as Nylabones. The antlers probably won't last as long as a Nylabone (which can withstand years of chewing). The antlers will, however, clean your dog's teeth, safely satisfy his urge to chew, and provide him with protein. If your dog can chew down a hard Nylabone in three days, he can probably chew an antler in two days. If it takes your dog six months to chew down a Nylabone, expect the antler to last half that time. That's just a guesstimate, of course, but that's not bad, considering the specialness of what you're giving him.

The antlers come in three-packs of five different sizes. Lizzie's antlers are "Large." You can see how interested she is in them! And you can see she's been asked to share them with little brother Angus.

The antlers start at $19.99 for a three-pack of smalls. Again, that's about $6.50 each...the same price as (or even less than) a Nylabone. You can order them from my Flint River Ranch website. They come parcel post (unlike the dog food which comes via UPS) and your package should arrive in about 10 days. Remember that SHIPPING IS INCLUDED in the price.

Go here to order: www.myflintriver.com. If you don't see my face on the home page, it's not the right website.

Antlers & Bully Sticks now available here! NO FOOLING!!

2011-04-01T12:24:00.021-06:00

If your dog likes to chew....but you'd rather he didn't chew up your furniture or shoes...here are a couple alternatives that are guaranteed to please your dog without harming his health or your household:

Flint River Ranch Antler Chews

Dear Antler Dog Chews!

Flint River Ranch, long known for its premium all-natural dog food, now offers a long-lasting chew treat straight from Mother Nature! Deer naturally shed their antlers every spring. The naturally shed antlers are gathered, power-washed with water, cut, and the sharp edges removed to give your dog a healthy, safer chew. Each antler is sold by weight and will vary in length and diameter from piece to piece. The benefits:

No odor
No grease or mess
Long lasting
Doesn't splinter like a bone
Helps clean teeth naturally
Does not contain chemicals
A good source of calcium, phosphorous and potassium
No fat!

The antlers are sold in packs of 3, which range from petite to extra-jumbo. Prices start at just $19.99 for three of these natural, long lasting antlers! Click here to order.

And now....Bully Sticks!

Flint River Ranch Bully Sticks

Dogs LOVE Bully Sticks, which are made from the tendons and ligaments surrounding a bull's urethra. Sounds yucky, but dog fanciers have stocked up on these for many years at dog shows and supplied them to their show dogs as special treats. Flint River Ranch's Bully Sticks come from free-range cattle in South America and Costa Rica. They are not chemically treated, have virtually no odor, and won't stain your carpet. Flint River Ranch oven-bakes its Bully Sticks for more flavor and cleanliness.

No grease
Oven-baked for flavor and cleanliness
Low to no odor
Longer lasting
Does not splinter like bone
100% digestible (unlike rawhide)
Helps clean teeth naturally
Low in fat, high in protein

The Bully Sticks are sold in packs of 3 or 6, depending on the size. These items will be delivered by either FedEx Ground or FedEx Smartpost, via the United States Postal Service. Note: your package may take up to 10 days to arrive.Click here to order!

Dog Motel Etiquette

2011-03-29T08:04:00.001-06:00

Last weekend I stayed at a Motel 6 with Lizzie, my pit bull, while attending an agility trial in the same town. It's not the Ritz, but it was affordable, clean and warm, and offered free wi-fi, so Lizzie and I were happier than campers.

The best thing about it, of course, was that they accepted dogs, and without even a damage deposit. I used to stay at Super 8's a lot when traveling to obedience and agility trials with my Swissies years ago, and I was grateful they took dogs, even with a deposit. A number of other chains are also good about this, but not every franchise of every chain plays by the same rules, so you must check first if you want reservations at a pet-friendly establishment.

Because I'm so appreciative of the motels that accept dogs, I try extra hard to be a good guest. I know I'll be scrutinized more severely than non-pet-owning guests, so I'll put out extra effort to preserve the privilege to have Lizzie in the motel room with me. After all, I want to be able to stay at the same place next year too.

Here's a list of "motel etiquette" appropriate for people traveling with dogs:

1. Never make a scene or call attention to yourself and your dog. Slip in and out quietly. If you arrive late at night when other guests are already sleeping, remove your dog's jingly collar as you walk to your room. Dog tags make a distinctive noise that says, "There's a dog out there!" It may be disruptive to other guests, and is a sure way to get other dog-guests barking!

2. Take a sheet from home to cover the bed if your dog sleeps there with you. An old king-size fitted sheet works very well and will usually stay in place, right over the bedspread. It will keep muddy paw prints and dog hair off the bedding.

3. Bring a towel from home to wipe your dog's feet and body if he gets wet or muddy. Do NOT use motel towels to wipe your dog.

4. Feed and water your dog on the vinyl floor in the bathroom, not on the carpeted area. If he spills or sloshes, mop up the affected area with your towel from home.

5. Enforce a "No Barking" rule. Don't allow or condone even a yip. No rough-housing with dogs in the motel room. Your goal should be to get them and keep them calm (and quiet) at all times.

6. Do not groom your dogs inside, unless absolutely necessary. If you do, use the bathroom to contain the mess, and clean up as well as you possibly can. Your goal: to leave no trace that a dog was there.

7. Bring a spray bottle of Nature's Miracle with you. If your dog throws up, bleeds or otherwise messes on the floor, you can have a headstart over the maid.

8. Use the designated "pet area" outside for pottying your dog. If there is no designated area, go as far away from the building as you can in order to find grass or other suitable surface. Use a baggy to pick up your dog's feces, and dispose of it properly. If you see other feces in the area, pick that up too, lest YOUR dog be blamed for it!

9. Leave your room as tidy and clean as possible, even if you're returning for another evening. Dispose of all trash and eliminate clutter. Make it look like an extreme neatnik has occupied the room.

10. Don't leave your dog unattended in your room....not even in a crate. You may be accustomed to your dog's barking, but the people next door are not.

11. Leave a tip for the maid, along with a note from you and your dog, thanking her for her hospitality.

12. When you return home, contact the motel and/or its corporate office and (assuming your stay was satisfactory) express your appreciation for allowing you and your dog to stay together as guests.

How to dog-sit for your friends

2011-02-27T22:39:00.013-07:00

Years ago in Yakima, my husband and I started dog-sitting for friends and favorite Manning Dog Training students who were going out of town for a few days and didn't want to commercially kennel their dogs. Word spread, and before we knew it we were booked solid with overnight canine guests. It was like having a doggy slumber party every night in our house. With our own four dogs, we frequently had up to six hairy kids running around our house, clogging up the hallways, crowding the doors, and carpeting our floors. It was crazy, and it was great fun.

Our dog-sitting service was so popular that it got out of hand. The revolving door and related stress was affecting the quality of our own dogs' lives, so we scaled back...and encouraged our friend Laurie Mosher to take our overflow. She eventually launched her own Yakima business, K-9 Country Club, one of the nicest boarding facilities in Washington. Her place is exceedingly popular!

Now here we are in retirement, in Montana, with two dogs of our own....and a guest dog lying at my feet. His name is Jack. He's a mellow yellow Lab. Here we go again! (Not.) Really, it's a pleasure to take Jack so his parents (friends of ours) can have a few days of vacation. We like Jack, and would much rather he stay with us, in a real home, than go to a typical (non-K-9 Country Club) commercial boarding kennel.

Jack came with his list of warnings..."He'll hike his leg on everything....he may not eat for a day or more....he might run if you let him loose outside..." and we shrugged and said, "No problem, he'll be fine."

And he has been fine, primarily because we haven't given him the opportunity to mess up. Whether it's a new puppy of our own, or an adult dog we know quite well, they all start out the same way:

1. No excessive coddling when their parents leave them and drive away. The guest dog instantly becomes treated like one of our pack, which he has just become.
2. A drag leash goes on the dog's collar immediately. If he has a properly fitting chain-type training collar, we prefer to use that first because it communicates more quickly to the dog. The drag leash goes on the "live" ring of the choke chain when the dog is under supervision. We may remove the choke chain in a day or so if it's not needed, and we always fasten the two rings together for safety when the dogs are playing. If the chain collar doesn't fit snugly, we remove it because it's too big a hazard for dogs playing together.
3. Immediately, we teach or do refresher training on "Curb," which is a boundary training especially useful at doors. We don't just use it to keep the dog from bolting out a door; we use it also to demonstrate our leadership from the very beginning. It's a good reminder because we use it at every door, indoors and out.
4. The dog initially is supervised--observed--100% of the time. This gives us the chance to correct for any thoughts of leg-lifting or snarliness. It lets us give the dog a crash course in manners required in our household. And, if the dog isn't sure of the potty rules, we can show him where to go when he begins to ask. Supervision may last only a few hours, or it could last for several days, depending on the temperament and maturity of the dog.
5. Any unsupervised time is spent in a crate. We have several large crates stationed around our house. We use them like playpens for babies--a safe place to contain them when you just don't have time to watch them every second.
6. Meals come twice a day, on schedule. If the dog chooses not to eat at 6am and 6pm, he waits until his next opportunity 12 hours later. He's hungry by then.
7. Outside time: we have a securely fenced back yard. Our guest dogs never go outside the fenced yard unless then are on leashes, with us holding the other ends. No sense taking chances with potential runaways.
8. ID tags: we check the collar tags when the guest dog arrives. We generally add a temporary tag to the dog's collar. That tag will have our name, address and phone number on it. If the dog gets loose, we want his finders to call us, rather than having to track down his owners vacationing somewhere in Mexico.
9. Bedtime: all dogs go out for one last potty before shuffling off to bed or crates. Everyone sleeps together in the master bedroom. Guest dogs sleep in a crate, at least for the first few nights.

After about three days, the guest dog usually knows the routine and is happy and relaxed living in our home with our own dogs, because it's become his home too. He has assimilated into the pack; he knows the rules and, more importantly, the routine.

Jack goes home tomorrow. We'll miss him! Tonight he's sleeping outside the crate. He's still wearing a drag leash, but it's more for Angus (our Lab) to tug on than anything else. Jack's taken up some ownership of our home; he barks low and deep if he sees elk in the yard, or if he hears something strange outside. We allow him to wander throughout the house on his own now; he has earned our trust.

Caring for someone else's dog in your own home is pretty pleasant if you follow the rules, treating every dog as if it's a 10-week-old unhousebroken puppy for the first few days. Do the groundwork first, even if it's just refresher training, and you set the dog--and yourself--up for success.

Time for an ID Check

2011-02-22T11:09:00.000-07:00

Have you "carded" your dog recently?

Take time today to check your dog's identification tags. If he got lost today, you'd want to get him back tonight, and current ID tags are his best ticket home. Check for these things:

Are the tags still attached to his collar?
Is the tag lettering readable, or has wear and tear rubbed out the engraving?
Is the information up to date?

My all-time best recommendation for collar tags is from http://www.pet-tags-online.com/porderform.html You can get a military dog tag-style metal engraved plate for under $4. It will remain readable forever, it won't break, and it won't fall off if you put it on securely. You can even get a silencer for it (included free) if you don't like listening to tags jingle on your dog's neck. Me, I like it; it helps me keep tabs on my dogs.

If your dog also has a microchip, have its location and readability checked the next time you stop by your vet's office. Sometimes the chips can migrate. Plus, you may need to update the information with the microchip company if you have recently moved.

Her itching has stopped!

2011-02-22T10:41:00.001-07:00

Dear Jan,

Kayla's itching has stopped! I want to thank you for suggesting to me that I switch her food to Flint River Ranch Trout & Sweet Potato. Within days of switching, her itching lessened, and now she's comfortable again. She shed out a lot of hair when we first started the new food, and now that we're on our second 40 pounds, her hair is coming back thicker, softer and shinier than before. I can't believe switching foods made such a difference. Thanks again for the recommendation. By the way, she absolutely loves this food too, and I'm so glad I can have it delivered right to my house.
Your friend,
Barb

If your dog has itchy skin, your first action should be to upgrade to a hypoallergenic dog food. Many times the ingredients in common commercial dog foods set up an allergic reaction for your dog. Eliminating the chemicals, the flavor enhancements, corn and other undesirable grains can often fix the problem. Flint River Ranch's "Trout and Sweet Potato" formula (aka Fish 'n' Chips) is the company's finest product. Order it by clicking here: www.myflintriver.com

No excuses for your dog's behavior

2011-01-28T05:36:00.001-07:00

Are you excusing....or understanding......
What's the difference when it comes to modifying your dog's behavior?

To excuse is to put forward or defend an action in order to justify or minimize it.

"He bites people because he was abused."
"He won't listen to me because he's stubborn."
"She's upset because the other dogs are distracting her."
"She hides under the couch and growls because she is afraid."

As a trainer, I hear a lot of excuses from dog owners. They usually go in one ear and out the other. The most they reveal to me is that the problem is not the dog, but rather the dog/owner relationship.

To understand, however, is imperative to implementing change. When we understand a behavior, we recognize the true source of the problem and have a place from which to begin changing (improving) the behavior. Let's look at the above "excuses" again...what the owner is implying with the excuse, and why the the owner should learn to understand about the behavior:

1. "He bites people because he was abused." This suggests that the owner believes the dog's behavior may be permanent and justified. "Abuse" is a subjective, often overused, and emotionally charged term. Emotion clogs objective thinking and thus hinders pro-action. But what if the owner (or trainer) said, "He bites people because he has learned it gets him what he wants"? This statement is indisputable and unemotional. The dog bites because he discovered it's an effective defense (or offense). When we can clearly see why a dog has developed a habit, we can begin to identify how to re-program him.
     Behavior: bites people
     Excuse: abused (emotion-emoter)
     Understanding: it's a defensive/offensive action that has worked for him in the past.

2. "He won't listen to me because he's stubborn." By branding him as stubborn, you remove your responsibility as the leader. You make an excuse for yourself, as well as for the dog. If you truly step down from the plate, you can be assured the situation will only get worse. The understanding should be this: he won't listen to you because he lacks adequate motivation to listen you. Your words are not important enough to him because you have now shown sufficient leadership. Learn to be a better leader and the dog will be much more biddable.
     Behavior: won't listen
     Excuse: stubborn (all his fault)
     Understanding: lacks leadership

3. "She's upset because the other dogs are bothering her." The owner is excusing the behavior and passing the buck by blaming the other dogs. Many owners choose to simply remove their dogs from these difficult situations, but that will only reinforce the behavior. Indeed, the dog may be upset around the other dogs. But the reason isn't the other dogs; it's her lack of socialization, focus skills and leadership. By understanding, and not excusing, we have the tools to change her behavior.
     Behavior: upset
     Excuse: other dogs (passing the buck)
     Understanding: lacks social skills and leadership

4. "She hides under the couch and growls because she is afraid." Here again, the owner excuses a behavior (hiding) by using an emotion-packed adjective that tugs at our heartstrings. The understanding: she has learned that she can escape various pressures by running away. She will continue to use this as a ploy to get out of anything unpleasant, unless you stop allowing her to run away from pressure. A simple drag leash is a great first step in changing such a behavior.
     Behavior: hides
     Excuse: afraid (emotion-emoter)
     Understanding: she has learned to escape pressure by running away.

When our dogs have behavior problems, it's our responsibility as leaders to help them. Making excuses does not help our dogs. The kinder action is to understand, so you can them implement positive change.

One Supplement We All Need

2011-01-15T14:17:00.001-07:00

The jury's still out on the actual long-term benefits of many "nutraceuticals," or vitamins and supplements, for both people and pets.

But one supplement has received nearly universal endorsement from both veterinarians and the human medical community: fish oil.

The "omega-3 fatty acids" in fish oil have been proven to fight allergies and inflammation. Fish oil also provides immune system support. It's even been shown to help cognitive functioning in geriatric pets. And it certainly promotes a healthy, shiny coat, which minimizes itching, flaking and shedding.

You can now buy fish oil in just about any pet store. Quality varies, along with price. We prefer to keep it simple; we buy the fish oil capsules (for people) at Costco and share them with the dogs; each of us gets one a day. The price is right, and the dogs love them; they think they're treats. We either dispense them directly from our hands to their mouths, or we toss them into their food dishes at breakfast. If you have a dog that refuses pills, you can buy fish oil in a pump bottle at most pet stores, and squirt it directly into their food.

Most holistic vets these days will tell you they consider fish oil downright indispensable in your dog's diet. You can't go wrong with this supplement!

True Confession: Puppy's First Night Home

2011-01-08T17:46:00.004-07:00

Once a month for at least a dozen years I preached to people in my Puppy Parenting Classes about how to get through the first few nights with a new puppy. "Get a proper sized crate," I'd say. "Put the crate in the master bedroom, where the 'leaders' sleep, and don't acknowledge the puppy's whining or barking. In just a couple nights the puppy will learn to sleep quietly through the night."

It virtually always works. So why did I decide to "buck the system" when we acquired our Lab puppy last spring? Lord knows. I guess I figured it would be "different" this time...this was a hunting dog. We had a two-story house. I didn't want more dog hair upstairs in the bedroom. Whatever my lame reasoning, we put Angus to bed the first night in a little crate alone DOWNSTAIRS IN THE LAUNDRY ROOM. (Gasp!)

[If someone in my Puppy Parenting Class had confessed to doing that, I would have thrown a fit and chastised them up one wall and down the next!]

Angus barked almost nonstop all night long. I know, because I was awake listening, waiting for him to stop. They always stop, they always stop, I kept telling myself. He has to sleep. He'll learn this routine.

He did not learn the routine. When we finally took him out of the crate at 6 a.m. the next morning he was a traumatized little mess. After pottying, breakfast and more pottying, Don cuddled him in a rocking chair. Angus shivered so violently in Don's lap that we put a blanket over him. Within minutes he passed out from exhaustion and slept soundly there in Don's arms for a good half hour.

We actually repeated this routine for another night and morning. Angus' post-breakfast trembling had me concerned. No eight-week-old puppy should be allowed to get that exhausted. It was definitely not good for his health and well-being.

On the third night, we moved Angus' crate to our bedroom. You know the rest of the story. Of course he slept without a peep all night long. He's slept there every night since then, and has been absolutely problem-free.

It took me a while to realize why I'd expected Angus to sleep downstairs, apart from us. I'd had a hard time accepting the fact that we were getting another dog--a Lab, which was a breed I didn't particularly want. I think I was a bit resentful of this new puppy and hesitant to let him into my heart...and thus, our bedroom. However, this dog was obviously going to be much easier to live with, much better adjusted, and much easier to train, if he could bond with us.

Needless to say, Angus is now "Mommy's little darling" and I would never consider having him sleep anywhere but with us.

It bears repeating: The best place for any dog to sleep is in a crate or mat in the bedroom with the head of household. Our dogs are our charges. We are a pack. The pack sleeps together for security and unity. It's natural, correct, and it's the easiest way to raise a well adjusted four-legged family member.

Don't forget "Mr. Brown" this Christmas!

2010-12-13T16:16:00.000-07:00

"Woohoo!! The UPS man is here!"

Let's face it...whether you're a city merchant awaiting a big delivery of goods, or a ruralite who lives 100 miles from the nearest department store, everyone gets excited when the big brown truck rumbles up the driveway. You don't have to be a kid to appreciate the suspense of what's in today's brown box.

Dogs share this excitement. While some fear the rumbling, high-profile rig and the stranger in a brown uniform (who's usually carrying something), others can't wait to greet the driver with wild barking and wagging.

Astute delivery people know that dogs go with the territory, and that it's in their best interest to make friends with them. That's why so many of them carry a pocketful of dog biscuits to distribute among your noisy, teeming pack when they step out of their trucks.

UPS and other delivery people purchase their own dog biscuits to dispense to your dogs. When you consider how many biscuits they hand out each day, the dog biscuit bill can get pretty large for a driver. So here's a way to spread good cheer to your delivery people this Christmas: give them each a big box of dog biscuits, and mark it with a tag "from your dog." You need not buy gourmet cookies, and they need not be large. In fact, if you purchase a bulk box of dog cookies from Costco, for example, break the cookies into two or three pieces before you give them to your UPS guy. They'll go a lot farther. Plus, there's less chance of your dog (or another) getting more than he needs or should have. With dogs, after all, it's not the quantity of treat that matters; it's the mere act of getting something that counts.

Get your festive holiday bag o' treats ready and hand it to your UPS guy the next time Sparky alerts you that he's rumbling up the driveway. He and Sparky will both appreciate it!

Add this to your errand list

2010-12-06T12:11:00.001-07:00

If you're like most folks, you like to take your dog for car rides when you're running errands. You and your dog load up, armed with a list: grocery store, bank, pharmacy, cleaners, school.

Here's one more errand you need to write on your list:

Walk dog.

No, not after you get home! Do it before or after you get your groceries.

Do it in the supermarket parking lot.

Or do it in the bank parking lot.

Or up and down the sidewalk on Main Street.

Or in front of the school.

THREE MINUTES is sufficient at any or all of these places.

This should not be a "potty stroll." This is a "Let's practice walking nicely on the leash from Point A to Point B" walk, complete with distractions of people, cars, automatic door openers, bell ringers, the works.

Here's what you'll get from this three-minute walk-the-parking-lot exercise:

Training as valuable as at least a week of dog obedience class.
Confidence...if it's difficult today, it will be easier tomorrow.
Feeling of teamwork building with your dog.
A leg-stretcher for yourself.
Compliments from people who admire you working with your dog.
A feeling of accomplishment; you trained your dog today.
Consistency in your handling and communication skills.
Practice getting your dog safely in and out of the car (using the "curb" command).
Your dog gets more socialized, more worldly which means CALMER.
You and your dog have an opportunity to practice manners around strangers. (Most are glad to help.)

I now live in a rural area where it's hard for people to get their young dogs socialized and trained for the "real world." Parking lot walks, or errand walks, are ideal. They're free, easy, require little time, and offer huge dividends. City-dwelling dogs need the same experiences.

Your end result: you have a calmer dog you can literally take anywhere on a leash, because he's "been there, done that" already.

It's not enough to just load up the dog and think about doing it. Write it down on the errand list:

Walk Dog

Chesty's story

2010-11-27T23:08:00.013-07:00

On that December day I first saw him, he was a smallish brown shadow scuttling through the snowy apple trees at the end of the neighbor's orchard. A wary dog. Probably another stray that someone had dumped. I was on cross-country skis and he was clearly trying to evade me, so I put him out of my mind. We didn't need a stray dog bringing some disease home to our own pampered canines.

The next time I saw him, he was locked in our backyard dog pen. He was a dirty pit pull, so skinny that every rib was visible through the brindle skin. His sides and neck were covered with scabbed-over wounds and scrapes. His head was huge and his eyes were sunken. He reminded me of a National Geographic photo of a malnourished Biafran child.

My husband had put him in the pen. He and our friend Bob had been out working in the driveway that afternoon while I was in town. The skinny pit bull had wandered in and taken shelter under the open tailgate of Bob's pickup. Both men were aghast when they saw the dog's condition. My husband got him a bowlful of food and, after some coaxing, the dog crept over to it and started chowing down.

"He was in such bad shape, we both contemplated whether we should just put him out of his misery then and there," Don recalls. But the dog didn't give them the opportunity. After licking the bowl clean, he slowly but purposefully retreated back down toward the end of the driveway. He stopped to look over his shoulder at them once. "It was as if he was saying, 'Thanks, guys, I really appreciate you giving me my last meal...now I have to be going.'"

For a short moment the two men looked at each other, and then back at the pathetic dog that probably wouldn't survive the next cold night out there in the orchard. They agreed he deserved one more chance, so Bob went after him and coaxed him back up the driveway, into the back yard, and into the dog pen where he gave him a second bowlful of food. The dog scarfed it down with great appreciation.

When I got home and saw him, I had mixed emotions. He was filthy, injured, ugly as sin, and he was a pit bull. I knew they were inherently wonderful dogs, but I didn't know this one....and he sure looked like he came from the wrong side of the tracks.

But someone had cared enough about him to have him neutered, and he wasn't more than two years old. He seemed to adore people and other dogs. He was friendly and humble, and very submissive even when we introduced him to our Greater Swiss Mountain Dogs. So now what would we do with him? Options were limited. We could nurse him back to good health and then try to re-home him somewhere outside Yakima, which had stupidly banned pit bulls within its city limits. How did he get in this fix in the first place? It was my guess that he'd been someone's pet, stolen from a backyard and sold into the world of dog fighting as a "bait" dog. He didn't have a mean bone in his body, so he eventually got discarded in the country and left to fend for himself.

For the next several days, I poured the food into him. He was so malnourished that he couldn't get too much...and the faster, the better. I gave him five times as much Flint River Ranch as our own huge dogs were getting. His system reacted with pancake-batter diarrhea for the first two days. On the third day he passed formed stool, and I knew he was over the hump. His energy came back. His eyes sparkled with good humor. Within the next week, scabs started falling off, revealing healthy pink flesh. His coat began to glisten and his ribs disappeared under a light cushion of healthy fat. In less than week, thanks to superbly high-caliber nutrition, he was a different dog.

We moved him into the house. I named him "Chesty Puller," after a famous Marine Corps marksman. I ordered him an ID tag and took him to the vet for shots.

We would have kept him in a heartbeat, but we already had an aging Rottie (Teddy) and four Swissies who demanded and deserved our attention. After some careful searching, we located a really nice ranch home for him in the Horse Heavens, with owners who loved pits for all the right reasons and wanted Chesty as a house dog.

Chesty sealed the deal for me, though, convincing me that I really did want a pit bull of my own some day. Four years later, when the time was perfect, one dropped out of the sky and into our laps, and she's one of the most delightful dogs I've ever owned. From now on, I will always have a pit bull in my life and my heart.

There are thousands of dogs out there who, like Chesty, are rescued in starvation mode. They don't need bargain-brand dry kibble that comes in 50-pound bags for $15. They need serious nutrition, quickly and immediately, if they are to recover and flourish. This Christmas, instead of buying the cheapest dog food you can find to donate to the shelters, invest in the best you can find. Consider it truly "first aid." If you want, I can send Flint River Ranch directly to the shelter of your choice.* Even a 10-pound bag may start a dog back toward optimum health.

*To order Flint River Ranch shipped to the shelter of your choice, just order here and fill in the name and shipping address of the shelter in the "Ship to" section of your checkout page. And thank you!

How to make your own dog cookies

2010-11-19T18:14:00.001-07:00

Don't get me wrong, my dogs usually eat Flint River Ranch dog cookies (their favorite is the Trout and Sweet Potato combo), but during the holidays I like to make dog cookies our agility club can sell for fund-raising at the local craft bazaars. Home-made cookies have that special appeal (to the buyers, of course) at holiday time...plus, you can control the ingredients and know you're baking something tasty and nutritious from supplies already in your pantry.

Google "dog cookie recipes" and you'll find thousands on the internet. But I prefer to concoct my own. You really don't need a recipe. Your measurements need not be precise. You need no leavening agent at all, since dog cookies will keep better if they're flat and very crisp. Nor do you need any sweetener, although I occasionally use a wee bit of molasses.

Look around your cabinets for some of these items:

oatmeal, preferably cooked
flax seed
wheat germ
whole wheat flour
vegetable oil
peanut butter
canned pumpkin
parmesan cheese
eggs
beef or chicken stock
ground cooked beef or poultry
blueberries
apples
millet (as a breakfast cereal)
brown rice
minced garlic
powdered milk/powdered buttermilk
molasses

Those are some starters. Mix any of these ingredients together and make a dough that is roll-out consistency. Roll your dough to about 3/8" thick.Take your doggy bone cookie cutters (or other small Christmas-theme cutters) and stamp out the cookies. Transfer them onto a large cookie sheet, turn the oven on to about 275-300, and let the cookies bake slowly for at least an hour. Your dough will be brown already, but if the oven makes the cookies too brown, turn down the heat. You must keep them in the oven long enough that the moisture evaporates and the cookies become hard and crunchy. Remove from the oven and let them cool on a rack overnight to finish off the hardness. Store in an airtight container, or freeze in a zip-lock bag until you need them.

If you think your cookies need seasoning, add some low-sodium beef or chicken broth as your moisture (instead of water). Don't be afraid to throw in a little cinnamon, primarily for the "aromatic" holiday appeal.

My dogs' favorites:

Oatmeal/molasses stars
Peanut butter bones
Pumpkin/millet nuggets
Parmesan/garlic squares

The recipes: a bunch of this, a little of that, a pinch of whatever...remember your dogs aren't as picky about what they eat and taste as we are. Just make sure you use good, wholesome ingredients (no artificial stuff) and you cook them long enough to avoid mold...that is, if they last long enough to get stale!

Hostess Gifts for Dog Owners

2010-11-19T17:01:00.002-07:00

You've been invited to someone else's home for Thanksgiving dinner or a holiday party. You need a "hostess gift," of course. Before you pack up that plate of holiday cookies, the loaf of fruitcake or the bottle of wine, think about your dog-loving host and hostess and bring something for the dog instead.

Some suggestions:

homemade dog cookies
a Christmas-theme bandanna
a new toy
an attractive ceramic water dish
a hand-made doggy quilt or fleece throw
a Christmas-theme leash
a ceramic dog cookie jar (filled, of course)

Okay, I can hear you already....."What about dogs with allergies?" "I only let my dog play with certain toys." "I have enough cookie jars." "My dog hates scarves." "I wouldn't allow my dog to chew rawhide."

Hush! You may not really need or want that bottle of horrid wine or another batch of fudge either...but you accept them graciously. Your hostess will accept a gift for her dog just as graciously, and probably with much more appreciation because of the special thought you put into it. After all, a fruitcake is pretty impersonal....but a rawhide holiday card will touch the hearts of any dog owner! If you don't like the item, you can always donate it to an animal shelter or re-gift it later. It is, after all, the thought that counts.

If you'd rather not take a chance on something "just right" for the dog of the house, then scents make great hostess gifts for dog-owners. Pretty scented candles, scent diffusers, and aromatherapy items score big as "usable" in just about any home shared by animals. Just don't present them with a candle that says it "Eliminates Pet Odors." That's a bit too blatant.

Does your dog really need clothes?

2010-11-16T23:17:00.001-07:00

Max was an American hairless terrier who came to doggy daycare at Manning Dog Training with a different outfit every day. In the winter, he had an Eddie Bauer-type snowsuit and boots. In the summer he wore t-shirts to protect him from sun overexposure. Max truly needed a four-season wardrobe.

Lately you can't flip through a pet catalog without seeing several pages of dog clothes, from rainsuits to fleece parkas and everything in between. To some, this may be sheer nonsense, but to those whose dogs live indoors, it makes all the sense in the world.

Sure, dogs have fur and fat to keep them warm. But if yours is an "indoor/outdoor" dog who sleeps inside, plays outside in all kinds of weather, and accompanies you wherever you go, then a few wardrobe items may come in very handy.

Rain jackets obviously will keep your clean, groomed house dog from becoming a wet, stinky house dog. They also remove your excuse for not walking your dog on a rainy day. Besides, it's fun to go walking in the rain when you're both decked in snazzy gear appropriate for the weather.

Fleece sweaters and hooded sweatshirts are great if your short-haired dog accompanies you on car errands during the colder months. The car's interior may be toasty when the heater's running, but if you have to run into a store for half an hour or so, your dog can quickly chill while sitting there, inactive and waiting for you.

A short-haired dog will truly appreciate a warm sweater for a cool day in the car. Quilted parkas with wind-breaking outer material are good for short-to-medium-haired or elderly dogs on blustery days. You'll also discover that your short-haired dog will develop less body odor and stay cleaner if you put a jacket on him for his supervised time outside. Dogs without protection have to exude extra oils and burn more energy to keep warm when temperatures are chilly; that's how they develop that greasy feel and doggy smell you notice when they come inside.

T-shirts and sweatshirts also come in handy if you're trying to keep your dog from pestering a sore, rash or wound on his body. The covering will keep the affected area clean and dry, and make it much more difficult for the dog to scratch or lick.

There's now a line of all-season dogwear developed with NASA technology. It's made with a "phase-changing" powdery substance sewn inside two layers of high-tech fabric. The substance adjusts to hot or cold and helps stabilize the dog's body temperature whether it's 95 degrees or sub-zero. It's the same stuff astronauts use. It warms when it's cold outside, and it cools when it's hot outside. When it was developed, its proponents predicted it would revolutionize human clothing. So far it's only seen limited use in the general population, partly because of its cost. A dog coat made of this remarkable stuff costs about $150...pretty steep, but potentially invaluable to performance dogs who compete in agility and other outdoor events in extreme temperatures.

And finally, we have doggy PJs. Silly? Maybe. Would the dog rather sleep in the buff? I'm sure. But for those of you whose dogs sleep in bed with you, a set of doggy PJs could mean less vacuuming of sheets. (Yes, some of really do that, don't we!)

Keeping a dog house warm

2010-11-14T17:58:00.000-07:00

Dear Jan,

I want to leave my two golden retrievers outside during the day when I'm at work. They each have a dog house, but every time I put a bed or blankets in their houses, they pull them out and shred them all over the yard. The weather is turning cold, and I want the dog houses to be cozy for them. Any idea on how I can keep them from destroying their bedding?

Kristin

Dear Kristin,
My fist advice is to not leave the two dogs alone outside all day. Bad things can happen to dogs left alone in back yards; someone opens a gate, the dogs get stolen, the dogs get terrorized by neighborhood kids, etc.

That said, if you must leave them out, here are some tips for helping them enjoy their outdoor shelters:

Instead of two dog houses, consider just one that's big enough to hold both of them. If the weather really does get uncomfortably chilly for them, they'll seek each other's body heat just as they did when they were in the whelping box.
Insulated dog houses are often TOO warm for dogs, so you probably needn't go that route unless it's sub-zero where you are.
Situate the dog house so the door is facing your back door. That way the dogs can sit there and watch/wait for activity in your home.
If the dogs insist on tearing up every bed and blanket, try a dog house floor heater. You can Google "dog house heater" and find everything from a heated floor to a forced-air furnace.

Do be sure to keep your dogs supplied with plenty of safe, "substitute" backyard toys, since they won't have those nice cedar beds to chew up anymore!

Dog needs a snooze button

2010-11-07T23:37:00.001-07:00

Dear Jan:

Our Lab pup is seven months old. He used to sleep in our bedroom, but he kept getting us up earlier than we wanted, so we moved him to a crate downstairs in the laundry room. He still gets us up because he wakes up half an hour earlier than we'd like and starts howling. How can we get him to sleep a little later?

Sleepless in Sandpoint

Dear Sleepless:

First, let's move the crate back to the bedroom. Your chances of success are better if the dog sleeps "in" with you.

Next, you must re-set your dog's internal clock. Let's say you want the dog to sleep in till 6 a.m., but he usually starts to whine at 5:30 a.m. Set an alarm clock for 5:25 a.m. The instant it goes off, leap out of bed and get the dog out of his crate to go outside to potty. Whether you choose to bring him back to the crate until 6:00 or stay up with him is up to you.

Set the alarm for 5:25 for several mornings in a row and repeat the procedure. You should find that the puppy will remain quiet until 5:25 as he listens and waits for the sound of the wonderful alarm that means you're getting up with him.

Now begin setting the clock a little later, in increments of 5 or 10 minutes. As before, always get up immediately when the alarm goes off. You're reconditioning your dog to wait for a cue before he starts making his morning noises. The cue is the alarm clock. All heck can break loose when the alarm goes off, but at least the dog is learning to wait, quietly, until he hears that cue.

Within a couple weeks you should be able to set your alarm for 6 a.m., which was your goal time. By then the dog has learned that you will always get him up and out as soon as the alarm goes off, and not before.

Keep in mind that weekends offer a different scenario. You may want to sleep in till 8:00, but your dog is used to getting up at 6. I'd recommend you still get up at 6, potty the dog, and then put him back to bed (maybe even in bed with you!) till you're ready to get up. Even if you put him back in his crate, chances are he'll settle down and nap a little longer when he knows you're back in the sack.

Sadie's autistic!

2010-10-30T17:09:00.016-06:00

"Sadie is autistic!"

It hit me like a ton of bricks at agility class this week. Sadie is the "special needs" dog I worked with last Saturday (read the post from Oct. 23). Her owner had kidded that she was "stubborn," and I deduced while working with her that she had an extremely high will to please but was afraid of failure. My general observations (that she thrived on extreme calmness and routine) were reinforced in class this week; Sadie fell in love with the dogwalk after I painstakingly coaxed her across it several times. But the real eye-opener was Sadie's reaction to the weave poles!

For those who don't know about weave poles...this is the most challenging of all agility obstacles for beginners. Six PVC poles are placed 24 inches apart in a straight line on a metal track. The dog must learn to rapidly weave his body in and out of the six poles. At the arena, and here at home, we have sets of "channel weaves" that make the learning simpler for new dogs. Last Saturday I tried Sadie on the channel weaves in our back yard, and to my utter amazement she picked up the routine immediately and without balking. Within minutes she was doing advanced work that takes most dogs weeks to accomplish. Best of all, she was totally on task while doing it; she was calm, focused, comfortable, and driven. Mind you, this was the same dog that screamed and refused jumps when I would mix up the pattern I wanted her to run.

When Sadie demonstrated more utterly jaw-dropping weave pole finesse at class this week, it all made sense. Sadie is one of those 3 to 6 dogs out of 1,000 who have autism.

Autism in dogs? You bet. I'm a believer. Dogs are susceptible to the same types of conditions, mental and physical, as humans, and, from my observation, at about the same proportion. The 3-6 out of 1,000 is actually a human statistic, but it seems appropriate to me. Autism is difficult enough to diagnose, explain, understand and treat in humans. It is a spectrum disorder; the symptoms can occur in any combination, and with varying degrees of severity. The same must be true with animals, and can be more easily identified in dogs because they live with us as family members.

The symptoms may include:

Lack of direct eye contact
Stiffening when touched in various parts of their body (except for face and head)
Irrational fear of new situations
Strong negative reaction to things that seem "out of place."
Inability to accept proper social cues from peers (dogs)

Temple Grandin, a high-functioning autistic well known for her innovative work with livestock restraint systems, followed her own instincts when she developed her livestock equipment. Her autism allowed her to relate better to the cattle, to see and actually experience things from their perspective. Realizing that firm physical pressure of a squeeze chute was a calming influence on agitated cows, she designed a revolutionary "squeeze machine" that is now used as a calming treatment for autistic humans.

Call me far out, but I see Sadie whipping through those weave poles as calmly as if she were in a squeeze machine. Weaving through the PVC poles offers her everything she craves...routine, consistency, repetition, and a feeling of solid but yielding objects against her body. They calm her for the whole three seconds she's doing them.

I've long believed our last Swissy, Kosmo, was autistic. We had owned five, and Kosmo was definitely not on the same sheet of music as the others. He related to world, and even to his own body, in a different way. He displayed many of autism's characteristics. He wasn't stupid, nor was he obsessive-compulsive; he was simply wired differently from .97% of the dog population.

There's no "cure" for autism, but there is management. Sticking with routines is of extreme importance. Patient, repetitive training exercises can pay big dividends. Keeping the dog leashed in strange or open areas is critical for safety. Most crucial of all is accepting the dog's unique point of view on his surroundings and himself, and helping him achieve his potential within those parameters. He's not "less." He's just "different."

This is actually my Lizzie who is definitely NOT autistic...but it kind of looks like Sadie doing weave poles, and it's a cool picture. By Les Korcala, dogactionfotos.com.

Contest: Free Sweatshirt

2010-10-30T12:37:00.000-06:00

Free to the right home: My "Big-Dog Mom" sweatshirt. XL, purple, perfect condition, warm and hefty, and chock full of good "karma."

This great sweatshirt was worn once a month--for Puppy Parenting Class at Manning Dog Training--for the better part of a dozen years, but it's still in mint condition because it was handled with loving care.

I don't need it anymore, since I'm no longer a parent of "big dogs," and particularly our Swissies who could have been models for the famous logo. I now proudly sport a "Pit Bull Mommy" shirt for similar occasions.

So...I figure this very special sweatshirt should go to someone who grasps its "gravitas," who will appreciate its heritage and energy, and who will wear it with dignity.

If you want it, tell me why and I'll choose the new home from the responses I get. I'm truly sentimental about this shirt, so I want it to end up in the best place.

Contact me (Jan) here!

Stubborn dog? Not hardly!

2010-10-23T15:37:00.002-06:00

"She sweet, but stubborn and bull-headed," Erika said of her pit bull/border collie rescue. "And she's a drama queen."

Sadie did cause drama in dog class. Every time Erika tried to encourage and then enforce a behavior, Sadie would scream bloody murder, causing Erika to back off on her request. Sadie was only mildly interested in food and toys, so those ploys didn't work to motivate her. Yet every once in a while she'd catch fire and do precisely what Erika requested, with a happy face and pizazz to spare.

I asked Erika to bring Sadie over and leave her with me for an afternoon so I could try to figure out what Sadie's "problem" was.

The first thing I did was fit her with a training collar (choke chain). Erika had been using a static buckle collar in class, and Sadie had learned to just sit down on her haunches and pull against it when she didn't want to do something. The choke chain is a dynamic tool that gets the dog's attention and then instantly rewards them for making the right choice. A "zip-zip" with the choke chain persuades the dog to move toward you, rather than away from you. As the dog moves in the right direction, the leash and collar immediately go still and slack, thus convincing the dog he's making the right choice. You, at the other end of the leash, begin to represent safety and strength, rather than threat. Much of Sadie's issue was based on fear, not only of non-routine situations but also fear of doing the wrong thing for her leaders. When a dog has an extremely high will to please, as Sadie did, fear of failure can be virtually paralyzing. The choke chain (an awful name for a plainly wonderful miracle worker) communicates quickly and reactively, which is the dog's natural way of communicating.

Sadie and I started out with a brisk five-mile walk, and then came back to the training ring to work on some simple agility and obedience exercises. She did fine, as long as she wasn't overwhelmed by too many requests at one time. When that happened, however, she would cave in, sit back on her haunches and yelp at even the lightest leash correction. That wasn't a stubborn dog! That was a dog momentarily consumed by fear. What caused the fear? Once again, confusion, and possibility of displeasing her leaders. When I slowed down with her and cleared up the confusion about what I wanted, she was comfortable again.

My recommendation for Sadie is that she complete the final two weeks of her beginning agility class, but then seek out a Rally Obedience class where she and Erika can work more slowly and quietly on friendly, low-pressure control exercises.

Many times dog owners will generalize their dogs as "stubborn," "hard headed," or even "stupid" if the dogs don't seem to respond to training as owners expect. Of the thousands of dogs I've worked with, I've met only a few that I'd actually characterize as "stubborn." There are usually good reasons why your dog behaves the way he does. Address the actual reasons, and you'll be on your way to unlimited success!

First Aid Kit is essential for travel with pets

2010-10-18T23:50:00.004-06:00

You'd think I would have known better than to go off to a three-day agility trial 350 miles from home without a decent first aid kit for either Lizzie or myself.

The thought to at least pack some Band-aids did cross my mind, but only fleetingly. "We won't need 'em," I rationalized in my last frantic moments of preparing for departure.

Sure enough, that first night on the road, Lizzie needed minor medical attention for a sore footpad, and I had nothing to give her. But I sat down and made my list of supplies I wished I had for her...gauze pads, triple antibiotic ointment, vet wrap, plain aspirin, and some Elastikon tape. The next day when I sprained my ankle while playing fetch with her, I added an ace bandage, an ice pack, and some topical anti-inflammatory cream to the list. Later on, for both of us, I added arnica and aconite tablets (homeopathic remedies for pain and uneasiness). I also added Benadryl for Lizzie, in case of a bee sting, allergic reaction, or the need for a light sedative. Oh yes...and some Band-aids for me (although I find vet wrap works just as well most of the time).

With these first aid supplies, I could have addressed a variety of minor problems, from sore footpads to scrapes, strains and minor cuts.

Here's my list again....I'm going to print it out and use it to gather up my traveling first aid box, which I will stow in the RV. I may add a few items to it--maybe tweezers, clippers nail trimmers. But I want to keep it short and uncomplicated, and adequate for a weekend road trip. Your own list will probably be somewhat different, depending on you and your dog's needs and anticipated activities. But you can sure use mine as a start:

gauze pads
triple antibiotic ointment
Vet Wrap
plain aspirin (a non-Rx emergency pain-reliever/anti-inflammatory)
Elastikon tape (it sticks like crazy and holds Vet Wrap and other bandages in place on the animal's skin)
Ace bandage
Instant ice pack
topical anti-inflammatory cream (like Surpass or Voltaire)
arnica tablets
aconite tablets
Benadryl tablets
Band-aids

Post Script:

Some late additions from readers...

From Dusty, a hunter/hiker: saline squirt bottle to wash out wounds and eyes

From Kim, a wildlife biologist: skin glue or super-glue to keep wounds closed and to stop bleeding toenails. Acepromazine for her dog's anxiety during thunderstorms.
From Gail, a multi-Lab mom: Hydrogen peroxide to induce vomiting if "the boys" eat something they shouldn't. Pepto-Bismol for upset Lab tummies. Gax-X tablets to buy time if the dogs bloat.

Got your own favorites? Let me know!

Preventive surgery can save your dog's life

2010-10-10T20:57:00.002-06:00

Mention "bloat," and some dog owners will snicker. They'll think of their gas-passing doberman, or their overweight chihuahua, or the time their Lab got into the food bin and ate himself round.

To folks whose dogs have suffered from true clinical bloat, however, it's no laughing matter. Bloat occurs when the dog ingests a mix of too much air, water and food. The stomach swells and is unable to sufficiently relieve the pressure. As if this weren't painful enough, the stomach can rotate, which twists everything shut. The condition is then called GDV (gastric dilitation volvulus). Nothing can pass through, including blood and oxygen. Unless the dog gets emergency surgery within minutes, the dog will die in excruciating pain.

While any dog can suffer from GDV, it's more prevalent in deep-chested breeds like Danes, Weimeraners, Labs, dobermans, German shepherd dogs, and Greater Swiss Mountain Dogs. Small dogs like pugs can't be ruled out either.

Until fairly recently, informed dog owners could only take precautions they hoped would prevent bloat (like resting a dog before and after eating, feeding from a raised dish, and feeding smaller but more frequent meals). These steps didn't guarantee success, however, and the last resort was to be ready to seek emergency surgery if the dog still decided to bloat. Initial treatment might involve passing a tube into the dog's stomach to relieve gas. If the stomach has already rotated, the tube won't pass through, and the dog must undergo invasive surgery to untwist his stomach. At this point, most vets will also tack the stomach to the abdominal wall to try to prevent future incidents. This procedure is known as a gastropexy. The cost of this life-saving emergency surgery can be $2,000.

Here's the good news: you don't have to wait for a life-threatening situation. An increasing number of progressive vets are encouraging prophylactic (preventive) gastropexy, especially for the high-risk breeds. It makes much ore sense to do a minimally invasive surgery on a young, healthy dog, so the ideal time for a prophylactic gastropexy is when the young dog is already under anesthesia for spaying or neutering. The cost of this surgery can be as low as $200.

Angus shows off his scar

This was a no-brainer for Don and me when our vet suggested she perform a "pexy" on Angus, our six-month-old Lab, when he was in for neutering last month. Having lived with bloaty dogs (our Swissies and Rotties) for 14 years, we're pretty informed on the subject of bloat and GDV. Since we don't live close to an emergency vet clinic, it makes good sense for us to take such preventive measures.

The procedure was relatively simple, at least for our Purdue alumnus vet. She took a small piece of the outside of Angus' stomach and threaded it through a slit in his abdominal wall. She tacked it with dissolving sutures. By the time the sutures have dissolved, adhesions have taken over, holding the stomach in place with a natural strength. Angus came through the surgery with flying colors and was restricted in his activities for about 10 days while staples held his healing tummy incision together.

Talk to your vet about a prophylactic gastropexy (or just ask about a "preventive pexy.") If your dog is a candidate, this procedure will offer peace of mind for you and possibly a longer life for your dog.

Signs your dog may be bloating:

Stomach is distended
Dog gulps at air
Dog desperately licks and gulps at anything--grass, fabric, plastic
Dog is agitated...can't sit, can't lie down, can't get comfortable
Dog tries to vomit and defecate, but passes little or nothing
Dog acts both despondent and desperate

Risk factors:

genetics
family history
high energy level, bolts his food
high stress

Hands-free Praise

2010-09-30T14:04:00.009-06:00

Frequently when I tell students to "praise their dogs" for a good response to a command, they'll immediately bend down and put their hands on their dogs. While the dogs enjoy this petting and physical interaction, the owners' hands often get the dogs so excited that the dog ceases his "good behavior" (i.e., a good sit) before the owner has a chance to release him.

At this point, I have to explain my request: "I said 'praise your dogs,' not 'pet your dogs.'"

To be perfectly clear, "praise" comes from your mouth and your face, not from your hands. It's perfectly acceptable to your dog if you merely look down at him, with a pleased expression on your face, and verbally praise him:

"Yes!"
"Good sit!"
"G-o-o-od!"
"What a dog!"

Jennifer Norton in a Rally Obedience class with her dog several
years ago at Manning Dog Training in Yakima. Notice how she praises
her eager dog without petting him.

In modern-day dog training terminology, this verbal praise is known as "marking" the behavior you like. He sits on command, and you "mark" the behavior with a signal that tells the dog he did the right thing. This is how clicker-training developed years ago...the audible "click" is quick, short, and concise, so the dog immediately understands the connection between his good behavior and the click, which is usually followed by a treat.

To better understand how verbal praise alone can be a more effective, clearer reinforcement of good behavior, think back to when you were in second grade, sitting behind a desk in a classroom. The teacher poses a question, and you're the first one to answer it correctly. Which of the following responses will keep your mind channeled on the subject and ready to answer the next question as quickly?

Teacher remains at the front of the classroom and says, "Yes! Good job!"
Teacher walks over to your desk, leans down, pats you repeatedly on the shoulders and says "What a nice girl you are!"

You probably picked #1. Your dog operates the same way. If you want to keep him "on task," forego the petting and stroking during the lesson, and teach him to accept verbal praise. It's quick, concise and less of a distraction. Your voice is far more effective than hands. Vocal praise allows you to remain upright in a leader-like posture, without muddying the waters by bending down and touching your dog. While touch is extremely important as an emotional regulator, it can be a bad distraction when you're trying to teach a specific behavior.

Teach the dog to eagerly seek your verbal praise. There will be ample time at the end of each lesson to put your hands on him and give him an appreciative hug.

Why I've Been Silent for 3 Months

2010-09-12T22:31:00.000-06:00

His name is Angus, and he's now nearly six months old. Since he came to live with us last May at seven weeks of age, I've been doing the "new mom" routine and have had precious little energy for sitting down and giving advice to others on how to raise their puppies.

Angus is a Labrador...my husband's choice for a buddy and hopefully a hunting partner. We got him from a respected breeder in Helena, Montana, about four hours away. Since Day One, he's been an exceptionally sweet boy--sensible, inquisitive yet unchallenging, and just a tad lazy, which is a nice alternative to a bouncing-off-the-walls Lab disposition. Believe me, in the past 21 years I've seen every conceivable type of Lab and Lab behavior come through my classes, and I am thankful that Angus' personality and disposition fits into our quiet, laid-back lifestyle so well.

This has been a good refresher course for me in puppy-raising, and a chance to practice and prove the validity of the techniques I used to preach each month in "Puppy Parenting Class" at Manning Dog Training in Yakima. They have worked...Angus hasn't jumped up on anyone or done any "play-biting" since the day we brought him home. He hasn't destroyed anything because our floor has been littered with dog toys--primarily Nylabone wishbones, Kongs, and rope toys. And he's housebroken because we practiced "supervision and/or containment," using a drag leash on him when he wasn't in his crate.

Angus is blessed, as are we, to have a wonderful "big sister" and role model in Lizzie. He adores her, and the feeling is mutual, although she seemed to appreciate him a lot more when he was still smaller than she is. I'm a strong advocate for having an older dog to help raise a new pup. It doesn't always work, and the older dog isn't always thrilled...but, for the most part, it's usually good for both of them.

So keep the "New Puppy" questions coming, along with any other behavioral questions you might have about your dogs. Angus is a lot lower maintenance these days, and I anticipate having a bit more time on my hands as the days grow shorter and colder.

Oh, wait......what's that he has in his mouth NOW??????

Head halters for difficult-to-control dogs

2010-06-15T23:23:00.003-06:00

The problem area of any difficult-to-control dog is the brain. The brain is in the head (or so I am told). Traditionally we try to physically control a dog by attaching a leash to his collar. But there's the problem: the brain is in front of the collar and leash. The brain causes the dog to do something (i.e., lunge forward in an aggressive way), and all we can do is react, after the fact, by stopping the dog with the collar and leash.

Good leadership requires a PRO-active approach rather than just reactive. Good leadership prevents the dog from gong in the wrong direction in the first place. Ideally, leadership is established through daily living that impresses upon the dog's brain the fact that the human, not the dog, is the one in charge. However, not all dogs are equally receptive to this message, and not all humans are capable of convincing their dogs that they're up to the task of leading. Thus, the HEAD HALTER was developed.

Head halters give people this one-upsmanship on their dogs. They provide the human control of the dog's head, because the leash attaches to a ring at the bottom of the halter, just under the dog's chin (and IN FRONT of the brain). They work on the same principle as a horse halter. If you put a collar around the base of a horse's neck and attached a lead rope, you'd have virtually no control if he wanted to pull away from you. But with the lead rope attached to a halter ring under the horse's chin, you have leverage working in your favor. You can easily turn and even stop a 1200-pound horse with a light tug of the lead rope.

Certainly big dogs can seem like horses if they're unruly on leashes. But little dogs (and their owners) may benefit just as much from a head halter.

The most popular and well designed head halter is the "Gentle Leader." Its forerunner, the "Halti," has design flaws that make it much less effective. Recently a couple new manufacturers have come out with designs that are knock-offs of both. If you're in the market for a head halter, avoid the Haltis and knock-offs, and get a "Gentle Leader." It's tried and true, and it's by far the most widely accepted among professional dog trainers.

The candidates for a Gentle Leader:

Handlers whose dogs require firmer or better leadership than the handlers are capable of giving them. Some handlers are simply too passive, unmotivated, or physically incapable of projecting calm yet assertive leadership to their dogs.
Dogs who exhibit aggression that stems from a lack of self control. These are dogs who do try to be "good" while on traditional leashes and collars, but have a hard time controlling their reactivity. They constantly battle with the urge to lunge out at passing dogs or even people.

There is hope, in both cases, that the dogs and the people will learn to do their respective jobs better, and eventually not require Gentle Leaders. As a trainer, these are my goals:

teach the people how to control and develop the dogs' minds, not just their heads and bodies.
help the dog practice and develop the self control necessary to be a respectable member of our society.

Ideally, the Gentle Leader should be used only as a means to those ends.

Where to get a Gentle Leader

You can find them at virtually all pet stores and most feed stores. They'll be in the '"leash and collar" department. They'll range in price from about $14 to $20. They come in a variety of colors, in Small, Medium, Large and Extra-Large. If you want a full selection, go online to dog.com, PetEdge or any similar on-line pet store.

Once you buy the right size, GO TO A TRAINER for instruction. Do NOT rely on the sales clerk at Petsmart or Petco to help you, as these people generally know precious little about products or training. Invest in a 30-minute session with the best independent trainer in your area. He or she can fit the Gentle Leader to your dog and can get you started using it properly. There's a short DVD that comes with the G.L., but it's always better to get hands-on help from an expert, particularly if your dog has a strong negative reaction to it.

Note the way the G.L. fits on the yellow Lab in the above photo. The strap going behind the ears is quite snug. This allows the nose strap to be fitted at a diagonal to the dog's mouth. A small plastic latch at the base of the nose strap allows you to lock it on at the proper length. Placement of the nose strap at this diagonal should insure that the dog can fully open his mouth at all times.

The first time you put it on your dog...

He's not going to like it. In fact, as the instructions will tell you, "the more he resists it, the more he is a candidate for it." These devices are for hard-headed dogs who protest other traditional forms of training. They don't want to surrender their dominance. They REALLY don't want to be powerless when they see another dog or something else that usually triggers an "episode of high anxiety."

The typical reaction of a first-time wearer is to immediately lower his nose to the ground and start pawing at the nylon strap to get it off his face. As soon as he feels the tension of the leash, he will resist even more strongly. He may round his back and stiffen, with his head down close to the ground. You MUST pull up on the leash immediaely with sufficient force to get the dog's head up. Once it's up, release the extra tension on the leash so the dog can relax with his head in normal position. He will probably have several more episodes of strong and sometimes even violent resistance. He may curl into a ball and throw himself to the ground. You must still get the head up; if you pull sideways, gently, in the direction the dog is curled, he will get up fairly easily. Be sure to praise (and use treats) whenever the dog is standing, relaxed. Slowly and gently pull the leash from one side and then the other, turning your dog's head ever so slightly. This will let the dog know you have control of him, but that it won't hurt him a bit. Lure the dog to walk with you in his normal walking position (at your side, not out in front.) Remember that you are not hurting your dog in any way; he is simply reacting to his loss of control. The more controlling a dog tends to be, the more he will resist giving in to the Gentle Leader.

Keep the leash fairly short when you're using a G.L. DO NOT use the device with a retractable leash until your dog has been fully trained to accept it. If there's too much slack in your leash, the dog can move ahead of you, throw himself to the ground, try to paw the strap off his nose, and tangle himself in the leash. If your leash is held too short, however, you'll be putting unnecessary and uncomfortable strain on the dog's face. Aim for a leash that's just long enough to have the dog walk in heel position without actually pulling on the Gentle Leader itself.

Do NOT leave the G.L. on your dog, unattended. Chances are, he will destroy it in 90 seconds when you're not looking. (Yes, he can get it off if he really works at it). DO put the G.L. on your dog when he is calm....before you get him out of the car, the house, or wherever his excitement starts. If you wait until your dog is already in a heightened state of agitation, you'll have a hard time getting it on him.

Teach your dog to associate the G.L. with pleasant things...going for walks, getting treats, etc. Ideally, you'll have a dog who looks forward to seeing you get it out because it means good things are coming.

I've often told people that they can walk the worst-behaved dog on the planet into Petsmart on a Gentle Leader, and no one will even know they're difficult. With the Gentle Leader, you can hold the dog close and guard his motions, and he'll have virtually no opportunity to bolt away from you or even get boisterous. It even makes "sit" a lot easier to accomplish.

Do not confuse the Gentle Leader with a muzzle. The design of the G.L. allows your dog to eat, drink, bark, and even defend himself by biting if he has to. He'll just have much less inclination to initiate any of those undesirable behaviors when wearing it. Some dogs take a few minutes and others take a few days to adjust to this device. You are taking away the dog's power to do things you don't want him to do in the first place (pull against the leash, lunge, etc.) Don't give up! Don't take it off and stick it in a drawer because your dog doesn't seem to like it or tolerate it! The Gentle Leader will not hurt your dog and will, in fact, allow him to go many more places and experience more things with you than he otherwise could. Tolerance is part of what you'll be teaching him.

Playing or Fighting? Know the Difference!

2010-06-11T23:57:00.031-06:00

Photo: Looks bad, but it's just play. Notice the wide-mouthed "display" on both dogs as they try good-naturedly to look intimidating to one another. Both are in "lazy" prone positions. Ears are back in a relaxed, playful position. Eyes are wide open but soft. Mouths aren't aiming for anything in particular.

Murphy and Lexi are best friends, but they sound like they're killing each other when they play. Murphy, a chocolate Lab, has known Lexi, a shepherd mix, for more than a year. They walk together, with their owners, every morning. They spend time at each other's houses. They've attended doggy school together.

But when they launch into a play session, it looks and sounds vicious--even to the trained eye. Their play is quite harmless. It's how they choose to have fun together. There's no need for parental intervention unless they start knocking over lamps and furniture. Maybe it gives you the willies to watch their teeth flashing and jaws gnashing at each other, but--really, mom--it's okay.

If you've ever observed a doggy daycare, you've seen how roughly dogs will play with each other. It may look like a fight to a casual observer, but it's actually a friendly interaction.

A true dog fight is much different. Fortunately they don't happen very often. When they do, they will leave all dogs and people involved shaken, physically and emotionally.

Photo: This is a staged dog fight in Afghanistan. Note that both dogs are on their hind legs. Ears are pinned to protect from bites. Facial expression is wrinkled and "forward," not relaxed. The intent of the rear dog is clearly to sink teeth into the back of the brown dog.

A dog fight is a horrible thing to witness. The sweetest, gentlest dog you've ever met turns into a temporarily vicious, wild and uncontrollable animal. They become seemingly blinded with a rage to subdue their opponent and survive. During the process, one or both dogs will probably sustain injuries. Puncture wounds are most frequent in a serious fight. Even if no blood is spilled, both dogs will usually experience soreness and stiffness the next day, because the struggle itself take such a toll on their muscles.

The worst thing about a dog fight, from the human observer's standpoint, is the sense of helplessness as you attempt to break it up. Whether the dogs are malamutes or Yorkies, two fighting dogs become a seething mass of fur in perpetual motion. All muscles are tensed and straining. Chances are, you won't even be able to grab a dog's collar because the dogs will be moving so fast and violently. If you do grab a collar, you'll probably pick up both dogs at the same time because they'll be so engaged with each other...and you may get bitten in the process, although you're only collateral damage. Dogs literally lose their minds during these fighting moments. They hear nothing and feel nothing except an adrenaline rush.

What sparks such violent reactions between two otherwise docile pets? Usually there's already an underlying tension between the two animals, and a trigger sets it off. The trigger could be a scrap of food, a prized possession (like a human being) or even a nasty look. Why do some dogs not like each other to begin with? The same reasons some humans don't hit it off...two strong personalities clashing for leadership, two females vying for affection of the same male (dog or human), or maybe they just don't like each other's looks. Two females with "issues," be it dominance, fear aggression, or jealousy, are a volatile combination. Two unneutered males are also a dangerous mix. While there are exceptions to every rule, most breeders of high-drive dogs will advise buyers not to have two females or two males of the same breed living together.

I've seen dogs absolutely freak when first see certain types of dogs. Back at Manning Dog Training, dogs used to go berserk when an Afghan would enter the classroom. Same reaction with a clipped standard poodle or an Irish wolfhound. They looked different, and the other dogs didn't trust them. Their reaction is to offer up a strong offense. My own dog has a distrust of fuzzy white dogs, probably because she was attacked by one a few years ago.

Offense or Defense: Which position does your dog usually play?

An "offensive" fighter is one who is looking for a confrontation. He enters onto the scene with a chip on his shoulder, visible in a stiff-legged strut that makes him as large as possible. His hair may be up, as will his tail. He looks like a bully. His brow may be furrowed; his ears will be forward and alert. He may display teeth and utter a very audible growl.

A "defensive" fighter will wait for the offense to approach him. His stance--tail to neck--will be lower. He will tense. He will avoid direct eye contact with the offense, but will be acutely aware of his moves. He is saying, "I really don't want to fight you, but I will if I have to defend myself."

Photo: The Cocker is the "offense" and approaches the Min Pin with curiosity. The Min Pin thinks he's too "forward" and shows a defensive aggressive posture. Here, the Min Pin will be the first to strike, and this could bring on a nasty scuffle.

It doesn't matter which position your dog is "playing." Either dog can become injurious to the other. Size doesn't matter either. Many small dogs have a Napolean complex and will take on even the largest competitor without fear.

This is the moment to diffuse the fight! When you see these types of extreme, wary body language, get your dog's attention back on you before he growls and strikes out toward the other dog. Once they engage, you may be too late. Breaking up a dog fight can seem impossible once it starts.

To break up a fight, use whatever means are available. Throw a chair at the dogs if you need to. You will probably do less bodily harm to them this way than by letting them maim each other. The best technique is to spray them with a garden hose if you're lucky enough to have one sitting there, already on, right next to the dog fight. Throwing a towel or jacket over and between the dogs may also work, because it will break the action just long enough that you might get them apart. If you have pepper spray, consider using it. A few minutes of coughing and wheezing is better than puncture wounds and lacerations.

Even if your dog generally plays well with others, know his tolerances. Rough play may start out innocently enough, but escalate into a serious scuffle if one dog starts feeling overwhelmed by another. Yipping and squealing can often set off a negative reaction from the aggressor, whose prey drive may kick in and arouse him to cross the line. If your dog is feeling tired or grouchy from activity the day before, know that he'll be more defensive and less good-natured in his play.

The bottom line: know your dog and be realistic about his social shortcomings. Protect him from social interactions that could escalate to injury. Let your dog play in a way that is appropriate for your dog, and with friends who are appropriate for him or her. It doesn't sound much different from raising kids, does it?

Icky-poo or Okay?

2010-06-09T15:24:00.003-06:00

As disgusting as it may be to us, it's probably not harmful for your dog to snag an occasional piece of horse poop, deer carcass, or other slimy unidentifiable organic mass once in a while when you're walking in the woods. A steady diet of any of these things may spell trouble. But dogs are animals with incredible constitutions. They are grazers by nature, and they enjoy exploring the world with their mouths.

Used to be, I'd have a screaming "Leave it, ick, ishy, ICK!!!" conniption fit any time my dogs' noses would go toward something yucky on the ground. The nose would wiggle, I'd see the tentative little nibble, followed by the big "hurry up and gulp it before she can get it away from me" response.

No more. I've loosened up. While I won't let my dogs make a whole meal of elk poop, I will at least not lose my mind if I see them go toward it. That's just not the hill I want to die on. There are more important things I can nag them about. If I waste my nagging on fairly insignificant stuff, they won't listen to me when it's really critical.

Mind you, if your dog is scarfing up cigarette butts, dirty diapers and similarly disgusting human litter on the sidewalk, that's a different situation. Get out your best Mr. Yuck face and voice for those moments, and employ that "LEAVE IT!!!" command.

Today Angus, our 11-week-old Lab pup, found a couple turkey egg shells in the tall grass. He crunched them down like fried pork rinds. I let him. The shells are rich in calcium. Yesterday he found a crumb of charred wood under the smoker on our patio. I let him crunch that down too. The day before, he found a dead rodent in the grass and brought it to me. That went away. Worms, fleas, whatever...I didn't want him ingesting any of those nasties. Still, I didn't yell at him when I took it. Overreacting could have caused him to mistrust me the next time. I just quietly took it from him, disposed of it, and stuffed a Nylabone in his face instead. He was happy with that.

Supervise your dogs as closely as possible, but do allow them some time for safely exploring--and tasting-- on their own. It's part of the fun of being a dog.

Mother Bear Rises Up

2010-05-06T09:11:00.006-06:00

There are some types of people I simply do not allow in my life, let alone my home.

Politics aside, I don't care how "brilliant" or "intelligent" or "crucial" a person is perceived to be by others....if he voices derogatory, insulting remarks about my dogs (children) that were unfounded, disrespectful, cruel and profane, I would eject him (physically, if necessary) from my house and tell him to permanently hit the bricks and don't look back. No one is so "valuable" to society that he has license to insult children or dogs with demeaning profanity.

Rahm Emanuel, who is Obama's chief of staff, has long been known to commonly use extremely profane and insulting language in totally inappropriate situations (as if there is an appropriate time for such behavior). In a soon-to-be-released book written by Jonathan Alter, a senior editor at Newsweek, Emanuel's "colorful" language is illustrated. Among the many quotes containing the f-bomb expletive is Emanuel's emotional outburst, "I'm going to kill that f---ing dog." Emanuel is, of course, referring to Bo, the Obamas' Portuguese water dog, who has occasional indoor potty accidents in Emanuel's presence.

No one--and I do mean no one--who speaks this way or even shows signs of thinking this way is allowed in my circle. I would not allow him to work for me. If an employee at Manning Dog Training had EVER voiced such a threat, she'd be out the door! Insult my intelligence, insult the way I look, insult what I do....but if you voice such inflammatory and vile thoughts toward my family, you're gone from my life!

Emanuel does, technically, work for all of us. He visits our home (the White House). We are the landlords. His accepted presence incriminates his associates (those who inhabit the White House). They are the tenants.

As a trainer, I'm thinking Bo's indoor peeing problem was likely submissive urination in the close presence of this loud, foul-mouthed visitor. As a dog parent, I would rather picture Bo returning the ultimate doggy insult to Emanuel...by hiking his leg on him. No one would be more deserving.

--Jan

From Amazon.com: "In The Promise: President Obama, Year One, Jonathan Alter, one of the country's most respected journalists and historians, uses his unique access to the White House to produce the first inside look at Obama's difficult debut." The book will be released on May 18.

Lunging dogs need proactive leadership

2010-05-02T23:03:00.007-06:00

Which are you? Proactive or reactive?

Let's say your dog has a habit of lunging aggressively toward other dogs when in a class or other public situation.

You correct him with a stern voice and strong physical correction AFTER he lunges. If this is your style, you are a "reactive" handler.

A "proactive" handler is one who is very aware of her dog's tendency, and works to maintain good behavior so that she won't have to correct the dog for lunging. In other words, while the dog is quiet and well behaved, she is nuturing that behavior by acknowledging it. Her acknowledgment should actually carry the tone of a veiled threat: "Goooood boy, LEAVE it! Good leave it, quiet, right here, watch me, leave it, leave it," etc.

We all want our dogs to be naturally good and nice in public. We want to forget their tendencies to lunge, snarl and bark, and enjoy the moments of peace and good behavior. That's why we tend to clam up and ride the good behavior until we fall off, and then correct the dog for his social blunder. The problem is, the dog isn't going to learn self control if we are only reactive to the dog's mistakes. By the time your dog is ready to lunge at another dog, he's in the "red zone," as Cesar Millan would say. He's already crossed the mental line between self-controlled obedient pet and raw animal with no self control. All you'll be able to do at that point is (hopefully) hold him back and try to correct him with a verbal reprimand or a leash tug. The correction, however, will be meaningless because the dog's moment of "red zone" aggression has dissipated. He probably won't even know why he's being corrected and, of he does, he'll simply consider it as acceptable consequences that are not unpleasant enough to deter him from repeating his mistake.

While you are standing around in a dog class or a competition, you are probably watching the other people and dogs, or perhaps visiting. Your dog is watching too, but often with a different motive. He's watching to see which dog he likes the least, or which one excites him the most, and he's getting ready to spring toward that dog or bark aggressively if the dog comes near. You, as handler and leader, do not have the luxury of relaxing, visiting, and studying what's going on in the other end of the classroom. Your attention must be on your dog. Give him verbal support the whole time, so he knows you're watching him...and he knows you'll "nail" him if he starts to cross the line. It's this "omnipresence" that is so powerful in controlling your dog. He must know (or think) you have eyes in the back of your head and you can read all his thoughts. Once you have convinced him of this, he will look to you with reverence instead of blowing you off. He will exercise self control instead of lunging or snarling on a whim. Why? Because he knows "Leader" (you) deserves respect and wants good behavior, and because he knows you have the power to enforce.

As your dog gets older and more experienced, you won't need to keep up your "veiled threat" in order to stop your dog from lunging and barking. Once you have truly established yourself as leader, you and your dog will have a cozy, smooth relationship in which your dog doesn't argue with you or test your fortitude. Until then, become proactive...support the good behavior with praise, so that you won't need to correct in a reactive fashion.

New and better tick prevention!

2010-04-23T12:40:00.000-06:00

It's a bad year for ticks, but there's good news for dog owners who want a SAFER, effective type of topical treatment for repelling and killing these nasty critters.

It's called VECTRA 3D. While as effective as Frontline and Advantage, VECTRA 3D does not go into your dog's bloodstream. Its effectiveness spreads over your dogs' skin.

This product is only available from licensed veterinarians, and you may have to ask your vet to get it for you since it is fairly new and not as "established" as Frontline, Advantage and Revolution. VECTRA 3D kills and repels all stages of fleas, ticks (4 species, including Lyme disease ticks), mosquitoes, lice, sand flies and mites. VECTRA 3D starts working in two hours and kills fleas in six hours. It's quick-drying, non-greasy, and water resistant.

You apply this product in a similar way to the other popular topicals. It comes with a nifty applicator that makes it easy to get down to your dog's skin.

VECTRA 3D is not for cats, and should not be used on dogs younger than seven weeks old.

This product is so good that it's actually been endorsed by a number of leading homeopathic veterinarians and dog health experts across the country. If your vet does not or will not carry VECTRA 3D, you can try this website to find a source: Summit VetPharm http://www.summitvetpharm.com/Pet-Owners/Products/Dogs-Puppies/

Active Ingredients

Dinotefuran	4.95%
Pyriproxyfen	0.44%
Permethrin	36.08%
Other Ingredients	58.53%
Total	100.00%

Vectra 3D^®

Fast-acting protection against fleas, ticks, mosquitoes, lice, mites and sand flies.

No matter where you live, vectors (parasites) may infect your dog. It only takes one bite. That’s why it’s important to use a fast-acting vectoricide like Vectra 3D. It kills and repels vectors. Because it kills through contact, parasites don’t even have to bite to die.

Repels and kills adult fleas, ticks, mosquitoes, lice, mites and sand flies.
Kills on contact; parasites do not have to bite or feed to die.
Repellent action helps reduce the risk of vectors spreading disease to your dog.
Quick onset of activity killing adult fleas in 2 hours.
Prevents the development of all immature flea stages: eggs, larvae and pupae.
Protects for 1 full month.
Remains effective after bathing and swimming.
Protection for puppies as young as 7 weeks of age.

Ask your veterinarian about Vectra 3D for your dog.

Dog grief or human grief?

2010-04-19T23:36:00.005-06:00

Lou showed up at an agility trial last weekend with just one dog, not her usual two. Her old-timer, Buck, had succumbed to cancer just a few days earlier. Lou looked dejected, as did her surviving dog Coco, a nice (but also older) tri-colored Aussie. Not surprisingly, their agility runs lacked spark. Neither of their hearts seemed into it.

Before the trial was over, I expressed my condolences to her over the loss of Buck, and asked her how Coco was handling it. She confided in me that Coco missed her old pal and still looked for him around every corner.

"Do you have a younger dog waiting in the wings?" I asked.

"No," she said. "It took me over a year after I lost my last agility dog before I could even think about getting a new one. So Coco is it right now."

"I bet she'd love to have a new friend," I offered. "It would be really good for her."

"I suppose it would, but I don't know if I can handle it," Lou said.

"Then do it for Coco and not for yourself. If it would make Coco's life happier to have a new, younger dog to raise, you ought to do it. Put her well-being first."

Lou pondered my words. "I'd never thought of it that way before," she said. "It really would be good for her. I'll give that some consideration."

Of course I didn't tell Lou that she probably needed a new puppy as much or more than Coco did. I'm a strong advocate of filling such voids in our hearts with new puppies, as soon as possible. A pup is such a time-intensive and emotionally uplifting project that we literally don't have extended time to grieve the passing of the pup's predecessor. Nor are we under any social obligation to feel miserable for a certain length of time following the death of a beloved dog. Life is short! Move on to the next young dog who desperate needs you, and the pain of losing the last one will lessen.

Dogs live "in the moment." They are creatures of routine. When the routine changes (an old dog leaves the pack), their routine is upset...but only temporarily, until a new routine is established. The temporary upset is what we humans may refer to as the dogs' "grieving process." The best way to help your dog through this process is to establish a new routine (i.e., with a new puppy).

Remember that if you continue to telegraph your own grief and unhappiness, your surviving dog will be unhappy too. So do your old dog (and yourself) a favor; go find a puppy. You'll both be a lot happier!

Scrabble for Dogs

2010-04-05T13:04:00.010-06:00

My newest personal addiction is a computer version of Scrabble, which I play in bed on a netbook before I turn off the lights. It helps me clear my mind for a good night's sleep.

At agility class the other day, I heard my students using various commands to get their dogs to this or that, and I thought of Scrabble. They were throwing a lot of high-value words around and basically wasting them, the way you could easily waste some high-value letters, or "tiles," around the Scrabble board if you weren't strategizing very well.

"Come!" is probably the highest-value word in your dog's vocabulary, but only if you use it properly and don't waste it. "Come" is like the letter "X" in Scrabble...it's worth 10 whole points. But if you use that "X" cheaply, like for the word "ox," you only get 11 points for the word. If you use your "X" on a square that rewards triple points for the letter, however, that little "ox" word can earn you at least 31 points! The moral of the story: hold on to your "Xs" in Scrabble until they will really serve their most valuable purpose.
It's the same way with "Come." If you use it all the time, without strategy, you cheapen its worth until it's basically worthless. The dog chooses to ignore the command, knowing you say it so often and never enforce it. It has no worth to the dog.

"Stay" is another high-value command, worth another 10 points in Dog Scrabble. It must be used in combination with other commands, however, to be played. Just as it's impossible to make a word with one "Z" in Scrabble unless you combine it with other letters, it's impossible to get good results with a "Stay" unless it has been combined with a "Sit," "Down," or "Stand."

The "Sit" command alone is of very low value in Dog Scrabble. It's probably only worth one point. But a "Sit-Stay" may be worth up to 14 points. A "Down-Stay" or "Stand-Stay" would score even higher.
So how do you become an effective player of Dog Scrabble?

Choose your letters (commands) carefully.
Think before they spill out of your mouth in a rush to keep the game of life moving.
Are you able to enforce whatever command you have just given, without repeating the command?
Are you over-using a command so much, without enforcement, that your dog will utterly ignore you when you really need it to work? "Come" is a great example of this.....we tend to use it too freely and casually, instead of saving up for when it will be of highest value to us.

Dog Scrabble command values:

Come: 10 points (in Scrabble, equivalent to X or Z)
Stay: 8 points (In Scrabble, equivalent to J)
Curb: 5 points (in Scrabble, equivalent to K)
Down: 3 points (in Scrabble, equivalent to C, B, G)
Heel: 2 points (in Scrabble, equivalent to U, D)
Sit: 1 point (in Scrabble, equivalent to A, E, I, O)

Best shedding tool for most dogs

2010-03-24T23:23:00.000-06:00

Your dog's hair is starting to come out in clumps and clouds. How can you hurry up the process and direct the flow toward the outdoors instead of throughout your house?

The best tool for at least 70% of the dogs out there is a shedding blade, available in virtually any pet store or feed store, since this instrument is also used for scraping hair, dirt and sweat off horses.

The old-fashioned shedding blade works wonders on dogs with short-to-medium-long, straight coats, particularly if there is also an undercoat. Think Labs, German Shepherds, Rottweilers, Swissies, and all mixes of these types of dogs. Short-haired breeds like greyhounds and boxers can also benefit from this device.

Be sure to do the job outside, as the hair will come off in sheets. Bear down on the blade, as if you're scraping the hair off your dog. Scrape in the direction of the hair growth (with the "nap") and go very easy on bony areas like legs and hipbones. If you're tempted to by a $50 "Furminator" to do the same job, save your money and buy the $6 shedding blade instead. I've had contests with people to see which tool works the fastest, and the shedding blade always wins.

How badly do you want it?

2010-03-24T23:11:00.000-06:00

First, don't give up.

Granted, your dog is a mess. Her behavior isn't what you'd expected or planned. She can't hold a candle to your previous dog of the same breed. She's an embarrassment at dog class. She's difficult or impossible to take out in public because she wants to eat every other dog.

Not every kid is as "perfect" as the last one either. They're all different. And here's the first good news: They all bless us in unique ways. The more difficult they are to handle, the more we are blessed with opportunities to overcome, to learn patience, to be creative, to be humbled, and to grow.
You may never get much of an education in dog behavior and training if you have a dog who is easy to train and easy to live with.

Now, here's the second bit of good news: Your dog's behavior can be improved. Whether it's hyperactivity, housebreaking problems, aggression, separation anxiety or destructive behavior, the problem can be helped and often even eliminated. There's no one solution for every dog problem, any more than there's one way to treat cancer or one way to address the nation's economic crisis. Usually the problem will be mitigated by using a combination of methods. Your challenge is to find the right methods and stick with them.

Of course, it's much easier to give up and get rid of the dog. After all, you didn't bargain for this type of behavior, and you don't have time for it. You got a dog to de-stress your life, not to add stress to it. Don't forget, however, that if you pass this dog onto someone else, they'll be inheriting your problems, and the dog may be even worse in his second, third, or fourth home.

So here's the thing: if you want this dog to work out, and if you want it badly enough, it can happen. It won't be easy. You may have to spend 500% more time with your dog than you currently do. You may have to learn some new rules of engagement. You may have to buy some special training collars or devices. You may have to commit yourself to learning more about canine behavior. You may have to accept this dog as a special project. Perhaps she will never be the dog you dreamed she'd be...but perhaps she'll be 1000 times better because of the extra work she requires.

When I adopted my pit bull puppy, I committed myself to having the best behaved, best socialized dog in town. It meant going for several lengthy leash walks a day, carting her around town to expose her to everything, taking her to a variety of training classes, and demanding excellence of her. Because I had a dog that would be under more public scrutiny than a typical golden retriever, I was more motivated to help her succeed. I met my goals, but the commitment continues. Her exercise is still an integral part of my structured day. I have benefitted from that as much as she has!

How badly do you want your dog to be the dog of your dreams? Desire is the greatest motivator. You can make it happen.

No Excuses Accepted!

2010-03-22T23:03:00.000-06:00

It's the best exercise in the world. It's cheap, satisfying, relaxing, and easy on virtually all bodies, both human and canine.

You're guaranteed to have a better dog if you do it.

You're guaranteed to have better health if you do it.

You will like yourself a lot more after you do it.

So how many miles have you walked with your dog so far this week?

Got dog problems? Got health problems of your own? Want to avoid dog problems and health problems?

Get outside and walk your dog.

No, no! NO excuses. None.

Get the leash, put on some walking shoes, dress for the weather, and GO.

JUST DO IT!

Help for the easily traumatized dog

2010-03-04T22:20:00.001-07:00

It's called "Aconite," and it just may help your dog through periods of high stress associated with trauma and/or loud noises.

My chiropractor, who is a firm believer in homeopathics, mentioned that he gave his dog Aconite prior to the Fourth of July fireworks display held in the park next to his house. I'd never heard of Aconite before, but I did know that good old "Rescue Remedy" had failed to be effective enough in helping my dog Lizzie deal with her fear of gunfire. (At some time during her four years of life, Lizzie has developed a fear of sudden loud noises. When my husband (who is a "retired" gunsmith) test-fires a gun in the back yard, Lizzie makes a beeline under my office desk or under the bed. She stays there, in a funk, for a long time after the shooting has stopped.)

So I went down to the local health food store and bought a bottle of these little white pills. The next time my husband wanted to do some test-firing, he gave me a few minutes "warning" so I could give Lizzie four of these Aconite pills. I closely monitored her reaction when she heard the first shot. She jumped a bit, but then settled back down on her own dog bed instead of running for cover. She was subdued, but she wasn't trembling anymore. I was impressed. We've had several follow-up successes over the past few weeks using this product with Lizzie.

Aconite is a herb grown in the Himalayas. Its root is actually very poisonous, but when the leaves are processed for homeopathic purposes, the toxin is so diluted that it's no longer a danger. Aconite has long been used to treat people for shock or trauma experienced immediately after a horrible incident--like witnessing an accident. But it can also be used as a preventative. People prone to anxiety attacks often carry aconite tablets to keep their anxiety at bay. This herb is also used to treat headaches, colds, bladder infections, conjunctivitis, and respiratory problems. However, it is best known for its calming properties. Homeopathic veterinarians now frequently recommend Aconite as a remedy for pets who are afraid of thunderstorms, fireworks, gunfire, travel, or even trips to the groomer.

More and more, I'm becoming a believer in "alternative medicine" for dogs and humans. If you have a dog who's fearful of situations and noises, consider picking up a bottle of little white Aconite pills at your health food store. They're dirt-cheap (about $7.50 for 200 pills) and they just might do the trick...for a lot less money and health risk than chemical tranquilizers.

How do you teach a dog to ask to go out?

2010-03-04T21:07:00.001-07:00

Dear Jan,

My dog is six months old and is mostly housebroken but still has accidents if I don't catch her very subtle signs that she has to go out. I have bells hanging on my door, and would like her to learn to ask me by ringing the bells. How do I teach her to ask?

Donna

Dear Donna,
I never teach my dogs to ask, and wouldn't recommend that you do either. Teach her, instead, to depend on you to let her out before she has to ask.

While many people want their dogs to bark, ring bells or blow whistles when they need a potty break, this behavior more often than not becomes problematic. Young dogs quickly learn it's a great game to get you to let them out, and immediately let them back in again. This manipulation puts the dog in charge, which is double trouble if you're trying to act like a leader.

It's your job, as leader, to take total control of your dog's elimination schedule. She eliminates when you have time to let her out. In all fairness, you're always going to let her out before her need becomes critical. You know there are certain times she'll have to go potty:

Whenever she wakes up from a nap.
First thing in the morning.
After she eats.
Whenever she comes out of her crate.
After a play session or some other excitement.

If she doesn't go potty during the times you provide for her, then she must hold it until the next time. How do you teach her to hold it? Crate her during those periods when you can't watch her, or during those periods your dog commonly has an accident.. If your dog habitually leaves puddles on the floor between 9 am and 10 am, for example (when you're distracted and catching up on email), crate her so she doesn't have the option of piddling. (She won't piddle in her crate.) If she's been piddling on your floor in the middle of the night, crate her when you go to bed. There isn't a healthy dog over the age of 12 weeks who can't hold her pee all night if she is forced to do so. You do not need to get up to let her outside. If she whines and tries to convince you otherwise, try ignoring her noises for a night or two. She will probably adjust very quickly to spending the night in her crate, and her habit of going potty in the middle of the night will be extinguished.

My dog Lizzie goes to bed early...around 8pm. I don't go to bed until around 11:30. Before I turn in, I wake up Lizzie and push her outside to go potty one more time. She doesn't like it; she would rather continue sleeping. But she now knows the routine and gets up without argument. She knows why she's going outside, and she knows as soon as I see her piddle, I'll let her back inside for the rest of the night. Then we can both sleep without worry.
--Jan

Are off-leash dog parks safe?

2010-02-20T22:31:00.000-07:00

Jan,

What do you think of off-leash dog parks? Are they safe places to let dogs run and play?

Myrna

Myrna,
Sorry, but I'm not a fan of off-leash dog parks at all, simply because I don't know the dogs that will be there and how well balanced they are. While it's invaluable experience for a young dog to be "thrown in" with a pack of well balanced dogs, there's usually no way of knowing in a dog park which dogs are balanced and which are not. The last thing your dog needs is a run-up encounter with an ill-tempered Chow Chow or a neurotic border collie mix. This is not the type of experience you want for your dog in the off-leash park.

If you're absolutely certain that every dog in there is compatible with yours--if you know the dogs and their owners--then by all means, let your dog have some fun playing like a dog. But if it's a larger or more public area, I say don't risk it.

I've found that most dog park advocates tend to be a bit more idealistic and lenient-minded than I am. It sounds like a wonderful thing for a dog to run au natural, but unless you know who's in the playground gang, I'd urge you to err toward being an overprotective parent. There are better and safer ways to socialize your dog. Form play groups among your friends or dog school buddies. Find a responsibly run doggy day care. Take your dog everywhere with you and expose him to the world. And use a leash unless you're absolutely certain that circumstances are safe for an off-leash romp.

What's in YOUR First Ten?

2010-02-20T22:14:00.000-07:00

Find the food without any yellow in the first 10 ingredients....

1. First 10 ingredients listed on Pedigree Dog Food's label:

Ground Whole Corn, Meat and Bone Meal, Corn Gluten Meal, Animal Fat (preserved with BHA/BHT)
Wheat Mill Run, Ground Wheat, Natural Poultry Flavor, Wheat Flour, Salt, Potassium Chloride
This food uses "pet-grade" (not fit for human consumption) ingredients.

2. First 10 in Science Diet:Ground Whole Grain Corn, Chicken By-Product Meal, Soybean Meal, Animal Fat (preserved with mixed tocopherols and citric acid), Dried Beet Pulp, Chicken Liver Flavor, Dicalcium Phosphate, Brewers Rice, Fish Oil, Flaxseed
This food uses "pet-grade" (not fit for human consumption) ingredients.

3. First 10 ingredients in Purina Dog Chow

Ground yellow corn, poultry by-product meal, corn gluten meal, soybean meal, beef tallow preserved with mixed-tocopherols (source of vitamin E), brewers rice, dicalcium phosphate, calcium carbonate, malted barley flour, salt
This food uses "pet-grade" (not fit for human consumption) ingredients.

4. First 10 ingredients in Eukanuba

Corn Meal, Ground Whole Grain Sorghum, Ground Whole Grain Barley, Fish Meal (source of fish oil)
Chicken Fat (preserved with mixed Tocopherols, a source of Vitamin E, and Citric Acid), Brewers Rice,
Natural Chicken Flavor, Dried Beet Pulp (sugar removed)
This food uses "pet-grade" (not fit for human consumption) ingredients.

5. First 10 ingredients in Iams:

Chicken, Corn Meal, Ground Whole Grain Sorghum, Chicken By-Product Meal (Natural source of Glucosamine), Ground Whole Grain Barley, Dried Beet Pulp, Chicken Flavor, Dried Egg Product, Chicken Fat (preserved with mixed Tocopherols, a source of Vitamin E), Potassium Chloride
This food uses "pet-grade" (not fit for human consumption) ingredients.

6. First 10 ingredients in Ol'Roy:

Ground Yellow Corn, Meat and Bone Meal, Soybean Meal, Chicken By-Product Meal, Wheat Middlings, Animal Fat (Preserved With Bha and Citric Acid), Natural Flavor, Brewers Rice, Salt, Calcium Carbonate
This food uses "pet-grade" (not fit for human consumption) ingredients.

7. First 10 ingredients in Kirkland Brand:

Chicken,chicken meal,whole grain brown rice, cracked pearled barley, egg product, beet pulp, chicken fat (preserved with mixed tocopherols and Vitamin E), potatoes,fish meal, flaxseed
This food uses "pet-grade" (not fit for human consumption) ingredients.

8. First 10 ingredients in Beneful:

Ground yellow corn, chicken by-product meal, corn gluten meal, whole wheat flour, animal fat preserved with mixed-tocopherols (form of Vitamin E), rice flour, beef, soy flour, sugar, propylene glycol

This food uses "pet-grade" (not fit for human consumption) ingredients.

9. First 10 ingredients in Flint River Ranch Fish and Chips:

Trout, Potato, Course Ground Millet, Herring Meal, Oatmeal, Sweet Potato, Canola Oil, Flax Seed, Oat Bran, Natural Flavors
This food uses FDA human-grade ingredients.

Some words you DON'T want to see in the first 10 ingredients of your dog food labels:

Corn (cheap filler, indigestible, unpalatable)
"Product" (not specific, probably means guts, beaks and feathers)
"By-product" (not specific, means even worse than the above)
Salt (flavor enhancer, shouldn't be necessary, isn't healthful)
Mill run (swept off the floor)
Middlings (the undigestible part of the wheat, virtually no nutrition, just a filler)
Animal (not specific, could mean "road kill")
Poultry (not specific, could mean diseased chickens)
Tallow (fat rendered from cooking pots at animal processing plants
Flour (over-processed, lacking in nutrition)

Sugar (dogs don't eat sugar in a natural diet; it's not good for them)
Propylene Glycol (dangerous chemical used in antifreeze!)

To order the food without the yellow in it, go here:

www.myflintriver.com

Bonus tip: it's less expensive than some of the "yellow" foods listed above!!

Your dog, the mind reader

2010-02-15T16:13:00.002-07:00

On our way back from Hawaii last week, our friend Heidi called her mom from Sea-Tac to update her on her arrival at home. Heidi's mom had been dog-sitting their Westie during Heidi and Ron's absence.

"Bogie was upset last night and didn't sleep well at all," her mom had told her. "He thought you were coming back last night. He was very restless."

Now, it's fairly well accepted (albeit not understood) that dogs do have "E.S.P." and seem to know when their owners are returning home from work or a trip. There've even been books written on the subject.
To satisfy the skeptics, however, it's about as easy to figure out some of this canine "mind-reading" as it is to understand the interpretations of a human "psychic." I don't for one minute doubt that dogs and humans possess these extra-sensory skills...but for both species, their readings must be greatly enhanced and backed up by their keen powers of observation.

Let's take Bogie, for example. Bogie's been watching his "grandma" for ten days. He can tell there's something different about her energy as the day of Heidi's return comes closer. Grandma may not be consciously doing anything to display her anticipation of the reunion, but dogs don't need outright signals or audible words to pick up on these feelings. Bogie could sense by his grandma's actions, energy and aura that something wonderful and dramatic was about to happen, and that it involved Heidi.

As it turns out, Bogie wasn't the only one confused about Heidi's return. Her mother had also gotten the dates mixed up, and had been expecting Ron and Heidi the day before. Hence, her mother was giving out even stronger signals to Bogie that "something was up." No wonder neither of them slept well that night.

The moral of the story: your dog is so incredibly in tune to your body language and energy that he seems to read your mind and be capable of predicting the future. So why shout your commands or flail your arms to get hin to do something? He can hear you quite well, just by looking at you.

Try this exercise to reciprocate your dog's keen power of communication through observation: when your dog is in a quiet mood, sit with him in a quiet spot. Place a hand on him, just to physically connect you to him. Think a "whole" thought, like "All is well," or "I am here to protect you," or "You are very important to me." Whole thoughts are easy for your dog to hear and feel, and will reassure him in the moment, which is all he is capable of comprehending.

Later on, try transmitting similar "whole thoughts" to your dog from across the room. Smile if you want, but it's not necessary. Your dog will pick up on your true emotions and your sincerity. He'll get it from your energy, not from a phony visage. (That's why they love us when we look our worst, and why we can't fool them into thinking we're angry with them.)

Finally, be aware that when you're getting ready to return home from work, school or vacation, your dog will likely cross your mind in a positive way as you envision the reunion. Voila! You've just communicated with your dog from a great distance. You've told him, without realizing it, that "All is well. I am nearer." No wonder he goes to the window and waits for your car when you are still a mile or so away from home. You may as well have called him from your cell phone!

Blackberries, Ipods, cell phones and other gadgets have lessened our dependence on mind skills for communication. As a result, we're evolving away from the mental powers of communication we once had. Take a lesson from your dog, whose mind (like yours) is so complex that no electronic can duplicate it. Learn to listen, observe, and speak with your mind....and maybe you can become almost as smart as your dog!

George Bush, Dog Dad

2010-01-25T11:30:00.000-07:00

"Here he comes!"

The crowd pushed closer to the rope line in the convention hall, hoping to get a close-up photo of President George W. Bush as he worked his way through the throngs of 25,000 hunters gathered at the 2010 Safari Club International convention in Reno last week.

Secret Service men wearing baggy black suits and wires in their ears did their best to restrain us and clear the way for the President. Their task was difficult, but probably not unpleasant, since Bush was surrounded by thousands of ardent supporters.

I wormed my way almost to the front of the rope line, hoping I'd be able to thrust my hand out and get a Presidential handshake as he strolled by. The crowd was alive with shouts of "Thank you, Mr. President," "We miss you," "God bless you," and "We need you back," and it was obvious he was grateful for the warm reception.

But I wanted more of a connection. After he shook my hand (just a hand thrust from the crowd), I yelled, "Mr. President, how are the dogs?"

He stopped dead in his tracks. He looked at me, his eyes twinkling as if someone had just "asked him about his grandchildren." His countenance softened.

"Thank you for asking about them!" he said. "The dogs are doing well, although Barney misses all the attention he got for so many years, and he's having a kind of a hard time adjusting to being a city dog now [in Dallas]. But they're okay." He started to glide on and then turned back once more and repeated, "Thank you for asking about them!"

Who among us (everyone reading this) wouldn't rather talk about our dogs than anything else? Accolades are great, but we all turn mushy inside when someone touches our soft spot--the subject of our beloved pets. I am quite sure that at the end of a difficult day in office, probably nothing comforted George and Laura Bush more than having their beloved Scottish Terriers up on the bed with them for snuggles.

That night "W" was the keynote speaker at the gala dinner. He started out telling us all about his adjustment to life in Dallas in a "real neighborhood."

"I decided to take Barney out for a walk in our cul de sac one morning a few days after we moved in," he recounted. "And of course Barney wanted to do his business in a neighbor's yard. So there I am, the former President of the United States, with a plastic bag over my hand, picking up the same stuff I'd been trying to dodge in Washington for eight years." The audience loved it; no doubt the vast majority of them were dog lovers themselves and could relate to the scenario.

He also spoke that evening about the "unconditional love" from his supporters, and how it had sustained him through the very tough times.

Bingo!! Bush's understanding and appreciation for "unconditional love" make perfect sense. Any true dog lover gets this, and realizes the magical, healing influence of that unconditional love. Whether you're a bum on a street corner or the most powerful person in the world, there's absolutely nothing that can lower your blood pressure and "ground" you at day's end like the adoration and companionship of a four-footed angel.

Wanted: Your Dog for Nursing Home Visits

2010-01-08T00:03:00.001-07:00

You haven't done it yet, have you? I know you've thought about it, talked about it...but most of you haven't actually done it. You haven't taken your dog into a nursing home to visit the residents.

Imagine yourself, an ardent dog lover, stuck in such a facility and cut off from the world, your family, your animals. What would you give to just see and pet a friendly dog, even if it's not your own? You might give everything you had, since dogs can offer us joys that nothing else can. Next time you drive past that nursing home on your way to work, remember that there are dozens of residents in there just like you. Seeing and touching a dog would likely be the highlight of their day, or maybe even their week.

For years I've been making occasional visits with my dogs. In Yakima we started with our Rottweilers, Scout and Teddy. Our Swissies were not good candidates for therapy dogs, but our pit bull, Lizzie, is exemplary. So Lizzie has a new job. Each Tuesday we visit the residents of the local nursing home. Lizzie goes room to room, hops up on beds when she's invited, and patiently waits for feeble hands to reach out to her. I put a piece of kibble in the person's hand, they extend the hand to Lizzie, and their eyes light up with glee as she politely takes it from their open palm.

You can do this too, and you should. You do not need to go through any special therapy dog training to do this, nor do you need any special certification. You can walk in next week with your dog and begin spreading cheer...if you have the right dog and the right facility.

Not sure your dog can cut the mustard? Here's what makes a good therapy dog for nursing homes:

They're quiet...no barking, no growling.
They're squeaky clean and low-shedding, and their nails aren't sharp.
They're not rambunctious; they won't pull on the leash or jump up on people.
They're not shy or timid; nursing homes can be pretty frightening to skiddish dogs.
They're patient and tolerant of distractions, clumsiness, waiting around, and even being ignored.
They're healthy.

Granted, that rudimentary list eliminates a lot of prospects, but certainly not all. If your dog is still in the running, let's talk about what you have to do.

1. Call a local nursing home and ask about their policy on visiting therapy dogs. While some facilities will require special documentation, most will not. They're simply delighted to have someone like you step forward and offer to visit. They will assume you know what you're doing with your dog.
2. If you do get the cold shoulder from one facility, try another.
3. Be "self insured." This means knowing--objectively--your dog's shortcomings and adamantly protecting him from situations that could emphasize them.

Example: your dog is big and heavy. Make sure he doesn't have the chance to jump up on a bed unless you're there to assist. That way, he can't accidentally injure or bruise a patient.
Example: your dog likes to give face "kisses." If a patient is reacting negatively to your dog's closeness, don't allow your dog to sneak one in, since someone might call it a bite.
Example: your dog has a long tail. While you're visiting with patients in a corridor, make sure someone doesn't run over your dog's tail with a wheelchair, (which could cause all sorts of chaos).
Example: Never leave your dog alone with a patient...not even for five seconds.
Example: Find out if the facility has a resident cat or other pet. If so, make sure you can control your dog around these other animals, without causing a scene. Never put your dog in any situation where his actions could be deemed aggressive by a casual observer.

Being "self insured" means accepting full responsibility for your dog's actions.

Some nursing homes may allow you to walk from room to room with your dog, and most residents are fine with these unannounced visits. Other facilities will request that you bring your dog to an activity room for the visit.

Now, if you still want to go the "certified therapy dog" route, it won't hurt anything except your wallet. But this "certification" can take considerable time. Meanwhile, elderly residents who need to see a dog tomorrow may not be around in three months when your dog finally becomes "certified." Moral of the story: if your dog is ready to spread joy today, don't wait!

Before you can do that, you must do this...

2009-12-29T18:38:00.001-07:00

My new buddies here in Montana are in a hurry to teach their dogs the sports of Rally Obedience and Agility. These activities look like so much fun (and are) that some want to dive right in before learning how to swim.

When they do, they predictably thrash around in the "water," getting frustrated because their dogs won't do what they're supposed to do on the courses. Time to throw out the life ring!

Before you can learn to dance, you must learn to walk, balance, and keep time. Those things, alone, take time and patience. Some people never get it.

Before you can do dressage on a beautiful horse, you must teach it to walk, trot and canter properly. That can take years. Before you teach those three gaits, you must teach it to respect you, to pick up its feet for the farrier, and to tolerate any number of other inconveniences.

Before you can compete in high school basketball, you must first learn to dribble, shoot, and pass, and you must learn the rules of the game. You don't learn those things on the court in the middle of a tournament!

Before your dog can compete in agility, obedience, rally or any other competitive endeavor, you both must first learn the basics.

For the dog:

Pay attention to the leader 24/7, because the leader is your key to survival!
Respect and revere the leader, because he/she is the one who will keep you alive!
Exercise self control so you don't hurt yourself or anyone else in the pack, and so you earn the praise (not the wrath) of the leader.

For the human:

How to be the 24/7 benevolent leader your dog craves.
How to speak your dog's language, not that of a new-age psychobabbler with a doctorate in "animal behavior."
How to teach the most basic commands, like come, stay, and down.

Those who put up with disrespectful behavior from their dogs at home should not expect their dogs to perform well in a ring. Respect must be earned--not by reactive reprimands, but by proactive guidance.. Respect sets the stage for learning and cooperation. It is the motivation behind a dog's will to please. Respect cannot be bribed with food rewards. There is, of course, a huge place for food rewards, but it comes after the respect has been established. The food treats are frosting on the cake then, but your approval should still be the cake itself.

Take time to critique the relationship you have with your dog. If it needs work, seek the help of a trainer who understands (and can teach you) the importance of being a good leader. Once your dog begins to look at you in this new and improved role, you'll both have a lot more fun with each other!

The Truth About Dog Toys

2009-12-05T23:30:00.002-07:00

"Huh! My dog would tear that up in about 30 seconds," the lady said, shaking her head at the hand-made toy I'd proposed she buy at our agility club's fund-raising craft fair.

"That's great!" I said. "That's exactly what he's supposed to do. And that's why it's only $3.00."

She didn't buy it--the toy or my line. She probably went to Petsmart later and spent three times that amount on a toy that wouldn't last any longer than the ones we were selling for $3.

Many years as a retailer for dog toys (and as an owner of destructive dogs) have taught me the truth about dog toys. Here it is . . .
1. Your dog will like the toy (i.e., enjoy it more) if he can destroy it. That's what most dogs do. They chew, rip, shred and "kill" their toys. That's the kind of "interaction" your dog wants with his toys. It satisfies his most basic desires as a prey animal.
2. Dogs are not crazy about indestructible toys. The "indestructibles" serve a purpose, but offer the dog much less satisfaction. Generally, a dog will prefer a soft, cheap, fleece squeaky toy over a fancy Cordura nylon toy because it's easier for him to sink his teeth into it.
3. Sinking teeth into a toy and ripping it apart is the next best thing to eating it. Dogs go through the process because they instinctively want to destroy the evidence of their kill, or because they don't want another animal to consume their kill first. Let your dog experience the fun and pleasure of ripping up a toy. When it becomes hazardous, take it away and discard it.
4. Toys are manufactured primarily for dog owners rather than for dogs. Give a dog an assortment of Nylabones and Kongs (basically indestructible but still appealing) and a few rope toys or old knotted socks, and he'll be happy. But if you want to spend more money, go to the pet store and buy the cute toys that appeal to you. Just remember to closely supervise your dog as he plays with them (and destroys them) and remove them when they become dangerous.
5. You can't predict how your dog will react to a certain toy. An extremely aggressive chewer may be able to destroy a Nylabone in two days, but he will cherish and cuddle a particular soft toy. A passive dog that's never destroyed anything may turn into a Cujo with a cute stuffed squeaky toy. A dog who loves all balls may turn his nose up at the new one you just bought for him.

6. The best toys for safety and value are still Kongs and Nylabones. The best for offering your dog instant gratification (the kind you used to get in your Christmas morning stocking) are those he can tear up. Just don't let him eat them. Avoid toys with removable parts like bells and plastic buttons that could cause choking.

Life is short, and even shorter for your dog. Let him have some frenzied fun this Christmas. Let him destroy his new toys with gusto!

Hold the turkey and gravy!

2009-11-19T11:37:00.000-07:00

DON'TS for Thanksgiving dinner:

1. Don't give your dog turkey skin or a lot of fatty turkey meat or drippings.

Too rich. Can cause anything from diarrhea to pancreatitis.

2. Don't give your dog anything with onions or raisins in it.

3. Don't give your dog any chocolate.

4. Don't allow friends and relatives to sneak your dog "just a little bite" of anything. Tell them he's allergic and will have EXPLOSIVE DIARRHEA if he eats anything but what you give him!!

Help for Loose Stools

2009-11-19T11:27:00.000-07:00

Getting your dog off the poor quality food (sold in supermarkets and veterinary clinics) and onto something nutritionally beneficial* is crucial to your dog's long-lasting health and longevity. Yet many dog owners are put off by one of the common side effects of diet upgrade: soft, runny stool.

The best dog foods* will often cause softer stool because they're richer and more digestible. "Rich" means they're made of high-grade protein that's fit for human consumption: chicken meat, lamb meat, etc. Such nutrients are easier for the dog to utilize, which means less waste (i.e,. poop) and an increase of healthy mucous lining the colon.

If the soft stool creates too much problem for you OR your dog (gas, butt-dragging, straining, etc.), here's an easy solution that works wonders: add a sprinkling (1/4 tsp. to 1 Tbls., depending on dog's size) of Metamucil powder to your dog's dry food. Add a splash of water and serve. Do this at every meal. Within a day, you'll notice a change. The stool will be soft, but it will be "encased," as if in a thin membrane, and it will roll easily and neatly onto your clean-up scoop.

Costco carries a copycat version of Metamucil (psyllium dietary fiber) that's several dollars cheaper than the brand name.

*A few of the good brands of dry kibble:

Artimas

Blue Buffalo

Blue Wilderness

California Natural

Chicken Soup for Dog Lover's Soul

Evo

Flint River Ranch

Fromm

Innova

Natural Balance

Orijen

Taste of the Wild

Slow poisoning

2009-11-08T22:20:00.181-07:00

Cancer, malnutrition, and even allergies don't develop overnight. Sometimes they take years. The junk food we stuffed into our bodies when we were young and foolish didn't seem to harm us then...but we were planting seeds for diseases that may yet sprout in our bodies as we age and as our natural defenses weaken.

Our dogs frequently suffer the same fate. We feed them popular but poor-quality foods recommended by misinformed vets or by New York advertising geniuses. Our dogs may not show the results of an unhealthy diet right away. It may take a few years before they develop allergies, or before a malignant tumor starts to grow. You might assume that the dog was healthy "until he suddenly wasn't." The truth is, he was never healthy because the food you gave him was a slow and gradual poisoning.

The most common, popular, and advertised brands of commercial pet foods today are made with vile ingredients. The term "pet food" is used by the Food and Drug Administration to describe a category of consumables that are not fit for human consumption. The pet food industry was developed as a means of utilizing moldy grains, rancid animal fats, and diseased animals that did not pass inspection for human consumption. Throw in some chicken heads and feathers, the blood, guts and sawdust that have been swept up from the rendering plant floor. Put it all in a pot, cook it under pressure, and extrude some pellets and voila...you have "dog food." Color it with red dye 40, yellow 6, and blue 2. Add salt. Add rancid restaurant grease. Add pesticide-type preservatives to make sure it can sit on a shelf for a year or so without developing bugs.

We're not talking the Dark Ages of the industry. We're talking about today's commercial pet foods that go by such names as Purina, Iams, Science Diet, Atta Boy, Ole Roy, Nutro, and a lot of those other lesser known brands that purport to be of high quality but cost less than $32 for a 20-pound bag.

Yes, it's an unfortunate fact of life: if you're paying less than $30 for 20 pounds of dog kibble, you're probably not getting the quality your dog needs to live a long and disease-free life. Never mind the cute packaging and million-dollar advertising campaigns. You're too smart to fall for those ploys, aren't you?

The pet food industry, in general, has done our dogs no favors. It has increased the incidence of cancer with its chemicals, increased allergies with its unhealthy grains and carbohydrates, and contributed to development of numerous diseases, from ulcers to bladder stones to kidney failure. Our dogs, who are meat eaters, are slowly starving on diets comparable to Fritos. It starts when they're puppies and sometimes won't manifest itself as a health problem until they're mature adults.

Whatever your dog's health problem may be--whether it's itching, excessive shedding, body odor, bad breath, bladder problems, sensitive stomach, mental problems, or even early stages of cancer--the FIRST thing you should do is UPGRADE HIS DIET. That may be all he needs! If not, the better diet will help any other veterinary treatment be more effective.

AVOID dog foods you can purchase in the grocery store. AVOID MOST foods found in feed stores. There are a select few who carry high-end, holistic foods. Use price as your guideline. If it's under $30 for 20 pounds, it's probably not what you want.

FIND good foods through internet research. You'll have to order most of them from independent distributors, or locate them at upscale pet stores in larger cities. Most of these foods can be ordered and delivered to you. The one I sell, Flint River Ranch, is like that. The reasonable shipping charges are built into the price. You pay nothing extra for shipping and delivery.

THE BEST FOOD OF ALL is a raw diet of "real food." Click on BARF Diet (Bones and Raw Food) to find out more.

THE NEXT BEST FOOD is human food that you cook for your dog. Chicken, ground beef, oatmeal, vegetables, berries, yogurt, eggs...check with your vet for recipes you can prepare at home and freeze for convenience in zip-lock bags.

THE THIRD BEST DIET is the one I choose because I'm lazy and like the convenience of feeding a kibble. I won't allow "common" pet food to pass my dog's lips, but I do feed her Flint River Ranch kibble. If I didn't feed that, I'd probably choose Innova, Artemis, Blue Buffalo, California Natural, or something of similar ilk and price. I'd have to drive to the Big City to find them, and I'd pay more than I do now for the Flint River that comes to my door. But I'd do it if I had to.

Here's what to look for when you're switching foods:

YES to FDA human-grade
YES to baked, not steam-extruded
YES to specific meat in the first three ingredients
YES to easy availability
YES to good taste!
NO to corn
NO to any animal by-products
NO to non-specific "meat"
NO to artificial colorings or flavor
NO to chemical preservatives
NO to fillers like peanut hulls and wheat mill run

Please...if you don't know the name of the food you're giving your dogs...or if you're not sure it meets the above criteria...change them to a better diet. Today. A few years from now, you'll be so happy you did!

For a graphic explanation of what the FDA allows into "pet food", click here: http://www.truthaboutpetfood.com/articles/486/1/A-Graphic-Description-of-what-the-FDA-allows-in-Pet-Food/Page1.html http://www.truthaboutpetfood.com/articles/486/1/A-Graphic-Description-of-what-the-FDA-allows-in-Pet-Food/Page1.html

In Memory of Audrey

2009-10-29T22:43:00.010-06:00

Audrey Ulrich, one of our former advanced dog-training family members at Manning Dog Training in Yakima, died Sunday, Oct. 25, of injuries sustained in a one-car rollover on Interstate 82 around Wapato.

Also killed in the wreck was Audrey's two-year-old son, Rafael. The family dog, Lula, a pointer mix, also died when hit by another car just after the accident.

Surviving the crash were Audrey's husband Matthew, their infant son, and Matthew's mother.

No one is yet sure what caused the rollover, but it's speculated that Audrey, who was driving, got sleepy and overcorrected when she hit the median. They were returning from Seattle, and on their way home to Richland.

Audrey first started training with our group in Yakima back around 2003. She had an exceptional Viszla named Calvin, with whom she had done remarkable training before she ever stepped through our doors. All of us in the group at that time--Betty Pace, Amy Kolzow, Ken and Joe Donahoo, to name just a few--were in awe of her abilities to work Calvin. Later that summer at the Wenatchee dog show, Audrey earned a CD (Companion Dog obedience title) on Calvin. Also earning CDs that day were Ken Donahoo and Amy Kolzow. The three Manning students took first, second and third! It was a proud and memorable day for everyone, and particularly for their trainer.

We all learned a lot from Audrey. She was a role model as a dog handler and owner. She went to extreme lengths to help Calvin overcome some horrible allergies. I remember I asked what he was eating, and she said very matter-of-factly, "Duck and potato. That's all he can eat."

Matthew, her husband, would often accompany her to class but would keep his face buried in a book most of the time. He was extremely supportive of her training. As a hunter, he truly valued his dogs and the work she did with them.

Audrey and Matt owned a grooming salon--"The Barking Lot"-- in Richland. As can happen with small business ownership, their work time became increasingly demanding and they eventually stopped making the 80-mile (one way) trip to dog classes in Yakima every Monday night. I lost touch with her...until this past Sunday.

When I Googled her name, I caught up with some of what she'd been doing for the past eight years. Besides having had two children, she was also a major advocate for a Tri-Cities Dog Park...an effort that she helped organize and one that will surely become her legacy. You can read about it here:
http://www.tricitydogparks.org/

You'll also find, at this same site, ways you can donate to her cause and ways you can assist the family with medical expenses. Matthew is spending several days in the hospital, and the medical bills are sure to be catastrophic.

If you knew Audrey and Matt "back then" or even recently, please send Matt your condolences and prayers. Let him know that YOU know how many lives Audrey touched with her work and dedication.

The address:

The Family of Audrey Ulrich

1209 Thayer Drive

Richland, WA 99354

Tarter buildup in small dogs

2009-10-25T22:34:00.049-06:00

Jan,
I’ve noticed my 3 year old Yorkie has tarter build up but it’s a fight to brush his teeth. He only eats Flint River dry dog food and has Milkbone dry biscuits as treats. Is there a spray or gel that you would recommend to remove tarter buildup?
--Debi

Debi,
Little dogs genetically have more problems with tooth decay and tartar.

I do believe the C.E.T. oral hygiene chews are wonderful for keeping teeth clean. You can get them at any vet's office...I used to sell them at MDT in Yakima for a lot less; check with the current owner to see if she still carries them.

Plan on having his teeth scaled at the dentist once a year. There's no substitute for a professional job if your dog has a natural plaque and tarter buildup.

Also, there are a variety of tooth-cleaning products and methods on the market. Check Drs. Foster & Smith.com. If he won't tolerate a toothbrush, maybe he'd tolerate a wipe or a dental sponge. Most of the oral hygiene sprays won't do much to affect tarter. Have you tried using a very small brush and just getting the front teeth done? You will have to hold his whole head in your right hand (head, not neck) firmly (without hurting of course), and use your right index finger to slip the right corner of his top lip up. With the left hand, work the brush up into that area. That's where you would start. If you do just a little, that's better than none at all. He should build up a tolerance to it.

If you're not even that far along with him, put a dab of doggy toothpaste on your finger and gently massage his gums (you'll still have to restrain him, at least initially). Most dogs love the beef, poultry, or peanut butter-flavored toothpaste.

If he likes to toothpaste, you can also squeeze some of it into a small Kong, hollow bone, or other toy that holds treats. As he works on the toy, he'll at least be getting the enzymatic toothpaste into his mouth.
--Jan

"Don't Eat My Finger!"

2009-10-19T23:39:00.008-06:00

Hi Jan,

We're careful with amounts of treats, but it's the best button to push when training our two-year-old Doberman, whom we adopted from the Humane Society about six months ago. He cannot seem to GENTLY take a treat from our hands. We've turned hand over, waited for less excitement, etc. He still lunges and could take a finger off!

Any advice?

--Peggy

Dear Peggy,

This is a common problem, and it's very fixable. First let's look at how the problems sometimes develop.

1. Some folks like to throw treats (like popcorn) to their dogs and have the dogs catch them. It's cute, but this teaches the dog a "snapping-turtle" response when he sees treats coming toward him from you. When you hold the treat in your hand, he's still ready to snap...and thus, he gets your hand too, even though he didn't mean to do it. The long-term solution for this: DO NOT THROW FOOD FOR YOUR DOG TO CATCH. Ever!

2. The other reason dogs "snap" at treats in the hand is because we make it difficult for them to get the treat any other way...and then snapping becomes a habit. Try this and you'll understand your dog's behavior:

Hold a piece of popcorn or a small food tidbit above your own head, so that you have to tilt your head up and back to see it. Your mouth is watering! You're ready for that tidbit to land in your pie hole! You don't want to miss. Your own inclination will be to catch it, and you'll probably even lunge slightly upward to get it when you THINK it's about to drop.

Now hold another tidbit LOW, at your MOUTH level. You can reach for it now without having to "catch" it. You can easily nibble it out of your fingers.

When you feed your dog treats from your hand, hold the treat LOW--at your dog's mouth level or below, so the dog has to actually lower his head to eat it. This is a more natural, relaxed way for your dog to eat anything, and he'll be less likely to take the food too aggressively.

You'll also have to develop an "offense" to actually teach the dog some manners and self control. Hold the dog cookie tightly between your thumb and the second joint of your index finger. Part of the cookie should be extending out--just enough for the dog to nibble but not pull away from you. Hold your hand LOW, as discussed above. If your dog comes at you with open mouth and teeth, bump into his mouth with your treat-holding fingers and growl something like "AAGH!" Don't worry, your dog's mouth won't hurt your fingers, and you won't hurt your dog. But you'll surprise him in DOG LANGUAGE that says, "Hey, go easy if you want this! I'm the leader here, I need your respect, and you must exercise care and self control when dealing with me." Your dog will back up slightly, and then try again to get the treat (keep your hand in the dispensing position). He'll approach more cautiously the second time. If he still tries to gnaw your knuckles as well as the treat, punch into him again and utter another negative growl. You are demonstrating, IN DOG LANGUAGE, his boundaries. Once he becomes very cautious about approaching to take the treat, lighten up a bit and tell him "Gently," or "Nicely." If he crosses the line and inflicts any pain on your fingers while he's gnawing the treat, let him know with an "Ouch!" He'll get the message and begin to develop a bite inhibition, just as he would if he were interacting with other dogs. Make him really work--nibbling--to get the cookie. He'll learn to keep his mouth almost closed and take the treat gently between his barely parted incisors.

Follow up with CONSISTENCY. Feed him treats the same way each time; make him work for them, and demand that he take them gently. To get lots of practice, try feeding him his entire bowl of kibble this way. Prepare to get a little slimy and slobbery. Of course, make sure that no one else is incorrectly feeding him treats and sabotaging your efforts.

If you have also taught your dog the meaning of "Leave it!", you can incorporate this command into the exercise. If he comes on too strong, use the command to get him to back off and slow down. A calm, "Okay" from you will let him know to try again....more carefully.

I'd caution you against using treats to get him to consistently obey commands. That's bribery, which means your dog has developed an attitude of "I'll only do it if...." and knows how to manipulate you. This causes a whole additional set of "issues." There's a far better way for teaching plain old manners. It's with leadership. Save the treats for trick behaviors or daily rituals.

Achy joints? Try this!

2009-10-18T21:31:00.002-06:00

Your dog has stiffness when he first rises in the morning. Or your dog is predisposed to some sort of joint problem, especially in the hips. Or your dog injured a joint, and you want to prevent further deterioration and inflammation.

Your vet may prescribe some sort of NSAID (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory). This is like aspirin or ibuprofen for humans. While doggy NSAIDS like Rimadyl and Deramaxx are wonder drugs, they are also harmful--and sometimes even fatal--when used over an extended period of time.

There is a safer and more affordable alternative. It's called "Joint Rescue."

This is one I've been using with my dogs for about six years, with tremendous results. It was recommended to me by one of my Yakima dog-training clients way back when. She swore by it, so I tried it with my own aging dogs and had wonderful results. I started carrying it in my store and sold so much I couldn't keep it in stock. It's that good, and that effective.

A bottle of 90 "Joint Rescue" tablets costs about $30. That's about 1/3 the cost of Rimadyl. "Joint Rescue" is made from all natural ingredients. The anti-inflammatories are herbal: yucca plant, botswelin and curcumin. They get rid of the inflammation that causes joint pain and stiffness, and they do it without harming your dog. The relief is fairly quick. If you keep a steady supply in your dog's system, you may help him forego inflammation altogether. He'll have less trouble getting up, he'll be able to negotiate steps, and he'll have more energy for walks.

The other ingredients in "Joint Rescue" are glucosamine and chondroitin, which rebuild joint cartilage over a period of time. So your dog gets the IMMEDIATE pain relief from the herbal anti-inflammatories, plus the long-range benefits of the joint supplements.

The tablets have a cheesy/garlicky taste, so dogs love them.

There are other similar products in the market, but most of them lack the herbal anti-inflammatories that quickly knock out the discomfort. Glucosamine is great, but as a fan of Excedrin to get me up and going in the morning, I certainly appreciate the immediacy of good anti-inflammatories. So will your dog.

You can order "Joint Rescue" from various dog health sites, or simply go to the manufacturer: Ark Naturals. You might even find some other holistic, all-nature products you like at the same site.

I swear by this stuff. It's cheaper, safer, and almost as effective as the powerful Rx drugs. Give it a try if your dog has any stiffness or joint pain.

Consistency: Is it humanly possible?

2009-10-17T23:58:00.001-06:00

So your dog isn't housebroken yet? You probably think you have a stubborn dog, maybe even spiteful. Or stupid. You've "tried everything," and you still can't stop the accidents (which aren't really accidents, by the way).

Sometimes "trying everything" is the root of the problem. You need to try just one thing, and be CONSISTENT with it.

Any dog-training manual worth its weight in paper will tell you about the importance of patience and consistency. But what is consistency when it comes to dog-training? It means doing the same thing the same way 100 percent of the time. Not 60 percent or 75 percent, but 100 percent.

My elderly friend Maurice is having housebreaking issues with his new rescue, Nellie. He thinks he's being consistent in feeding her on a schedule and taking her our for regular potty breaks. But every so often, Maurice will lie down to take a long nap and miss Nellie's cue. Or he'll leave her home alone for a couple hours without putting her in her crate. Or his daughter will watch Nellie while Maurice runs errands, and she'll miss Nellie's signal. All of these are inconsistencies--holes--in Nellie's training regimen. Because dogs think much differently than humans, and because they live in the "here and now," they interpret these inconsistencies to mean there are no rules to follow. Dogs don't understand exceptions. They only understand that, if the rule was not enforced the last time, there is no rule. Period.

That puts a tremendous burden on us humans, who are about as inconsistent as any living being on the planet. So should we give up? Heck, no. We must continue striving every day, while accepting the fact that if our dogs aren't "perfect," it's our fault and not theirs.

Dogs make us better humans by requiring excellence of us! Can you be 100 percent consistent tomorrow in the way you interact with your dog? Probably not! But you can keep trying daily to improve your percentage. As you do this, you'll notice something remarkable happening to you. Your self confidence will grow. You'll find yourself exercising more patience in all facets of your life. You'll become more grounded in your convictions--more able to uphold boundaries, rules and limitations for yourself as well as your dog. You'll become more self disciplined and leaderlike.

Next time your dog does something "wrong," look first at the inconsistencies in your own actions. By improving ourselves--becoming more consistent, more reliable and thus more trustworthy--we can improve our dogs' behaviors and our lives together with them.

Crippling with kindness

2009-10-17T22:53:00.003-06:00

Lizzie is enjoying--or suffering from--"youngest child" syndrome. Life's a lot easier for her than it was for our previous dogs who had to work for a living, trying to set good examples for all the other dogs in Central Washington.

More than a couple people have commented to Lizzie lately, "Say, girl, you're gettin' a tad porky." Ouch! Words to make any mother cringe! I got her on the scale and discovered she'd gained about 5 pounds over the summer. Not good, considering she has some hip concerns that will start haunting her in a few years.

How did it happen that my dog started gaining weight? Too many treats, too many indulgences. Too much pan-licking and pre-washing of dishes. (Yes, those calories DO count!)

I'm pretty anal about my dogs' and horses' weight, and my own for that matter. After four hip replacements, I know the toll that 20 extra pounds can take on a body's joints, even healthy ones. Plus, keeping relatively trim will increase the quality of life for all of us (dogs, horses and people), allowing us to enjoy more activities for longer.

Is your dog overweight? Never mind if you are. At least do something about your dog. Five extra pounds on a medium-size dog can shorten your dog's life span and cause aches and pains that he can't even tell you about. Doling out excessive treats and overfeeding your dog is NOT a kindness, any more than slowly poisoning your best friend. Be critical. Can you feel your dog's ribs without poking him too hard? If you can't, your dog is overweight. He is short of breath, lacks stamina, has trouble getting up, and moves with effort that pounds his joints. Some vets are too diplomatic to tell you your dog is fat. They think it will offend you, and they're probably right most of the time. The truth can hurt...but not as much as a bad joint that's had too much weight on it for too long. Be honest with yourself. If your dog needs to lose weight, help him do so by feeding him less and exercising him more.

He won't lose the weight in a week. It will take him time to melt it off, just as it takes you time. Barring any medical problems, your dog will lose weight by eating less and exercising more. If your dog is eating a small amount of dog food and still not losing weight, perhaps he's finding food elsewhere. Are others in the household sabotaging his diet? Is he finding extra calories on almost empty plates in the dishwasher rack? Is he getting a whole dog cookie when a fourth of a dog cookie would work just as well?

Fortunately I know about Lizzie's potentially bad hip, so I can take measures now--like helping her lose weight--to keep her sound, healthy and happy for longer. Even if she had good hips, I want her to be my agility partner for many more years. If I let her get fat, it won't happen. She may want the whole cookie...but it's my job to know what's best for her, and to see that she gets it.

Hey Mutts! Welcome to AKC!

2009-10-09T12:59:00.009-06:00

It's high time. The American Kennel Club has finally conceded to let mixed-breed and non-registerable dogs compete in companion events like agility, obedience and rally, beginning in April of next year. If you and your dog have been feeling left out until now, here's the scoop:

Date of Article: October 01, 2009

– Program Benefits, Including Canine Competitions and Lifetime Recovery Service with Free ID Tag, Available to 34 Million Mixed-Breed Dogs in U.S. –
Starting today, mixed-breed dog owners can visit www.akccaninepartners.org and enroll their dog in the American Kennel Club® Canine Partners Program. Mixed-breed dogs and their owners will now be able to participate in canine competitions held by AKC-affiliated dog clubs nationwide and access many AKC programs and services including lifetime enrollment in AKC Companion Animal Recovery (AKC CAR).
For a $35 enrollment fee, owners will receive benefits worth more than $50 including a free AKC logo ID collar tag with the dog’s listing number and the AKC CAR pet recovery 800 number. Ensuring that your pet wears this tag increases the chances of finding your dog should he/she become lost. AKC CAR has reunited more than 360,000 animals with their owners since 1995.

Once enrolled, dogs will receive their AKC Canine Partners listing number plus:

Lifetime enrollment in AKC CAR Pet Recovery Service
AKC CAR collar tag with AKC Canine Partners Listing Number
One-year subscription to AKC Family Dog magazine
Frameable 8.5" x 11" AKC Canine Partners Certificate of Recognition
AKC Canine Partners decal
Eligibility to participate in mixed-breed classes at stand-alone AKC Agility, Obedience and Rally events beginning in April 2010.

Additional benefits including a free AKC Canine Good Citizen® certificate for dogs passing the CGC test, and various other offers from AKC affiliates and sponsors will be added to the program in the future. With more than 34 million mixed-breed dogs in the U.S. (according to the 2009-2010 APPA National Pet Owner Survey), AKC Canine Partners is designed to strengthen the human-canine bond by encouraging training, responsible dog ownership and pet owner education.

"While we have always been known as an advocate for purebred dogs, we have also always been concerned with the welfare of all dogs. Encouraging the public to do more with their dogs helps us achieve our mission when it comes to canine welfare and allows dogs and people to enjoy one another more, " said AKC President and CEO Dennis Sprung. "With the launch of AKC Canine Partners, mixed-breed dog owners will benefit from AKC resources and be able to discover the world of canine competition."

With mixed-breed classes beginning April 1, 2010, dog owners have time to kick start their competitive training regimen. Go to www.akc.org to the club search function and look-up agility and obedience clubs in your area where you can enroll in classes and begin learning about events so that both members of your team can be ready to hit the ring and rake in the ribbons come Spring!

AKC-affiliated clubs may begin applying for events now by visiting: http://www.akc.org/eventplans/index.cfm or contacting AKC directly at eventplans@akc.org.

To find an event near you starting April 1, 2010 visit: http://www.akc.org/events/search/

For more information about the AKC Canine Partners program for mixed-breed dogs visit: www.akccaninepartners.org

Barksolver MIGHT work for you!

2009-10-09T12:50:00.001-06:00

In response to the post a couple weeks ago about how to stop nuisance barking, my good friend Karen (who is a top-notch dogmom!) informed me of a device called a Barksolver x40 that she swears has worked wonders for her dogs. I heard the same testimonial from another person! So I looked it up on Amazon. You can buy one of these for around $55.

Product Description
The Intellipet Bark Solver X40 is the safe and humane way to cure outdoor problem barking. The unit activates automatically when barking begins and emits a harmless, corrective, ultrasonic tone to eliminate barking within 40 feet. When the barking stops, the correction stops and dogs quickly learn to stop barking! Bark Solver x40 can be used in yards and kennels where problem barking exists. Requires four "D" Batteries.

I also read the reviews--there were only two--and they were both a bit dismal. Both stated that other neighborhood noises, including rain and wind, can set this thing off. The other complaint was that the dogs don't like it but they either got desensitized to it or just left the area when it "went off."

That said, what didn't work for two people I don't know DID work for two people I DO know. Y'know? So...whatever. It might be worth trying if you have exhausted all other behavior modification methods and are facing getting rid of your dog or having him surgically debarked. Me, I still favor electronic no-bark collars for their simplicity. But DON'T get the "citronella spray" type. They don't work and don't last.

Dog's behavior ruins vacation

2009-10-09T12:30:00.001-06:00

Dear Jan,

My four-year-old Giant Schnauzer is very well behaved at home. My husband is gone a lot for his job, and it's just Bo and me at home most of the time. Bo spends his days alone in a large pen adjacent to the house. When I get home, he's in the house with me and follows me everywhere. The problem is I can't take him out in public. He becomes a different dog! He'll lunge at skateboarders and dogs, he becomes totally inattentive to me, and he's borderline unmanageable because of his size and strength. I recently took him to Portland thinking how fun it would be to walk through the parks there with him, but it was a nightmare. I ended up spending most of my time dog-sitting him in the hotel room! Why is he like this? Can it be fixed?

Evie

Dear Evie,
Here's what Bo needs to become better away from home:

Socialization with dogs
Socialization with the world
. More exercise
Leadership

Socialization with other dogs: Get him into a play group. Doggy Daycare is ideal. If you don't have one in your town, consider a shopping trip to a larger town where you can drop him off at a good daycare for a few hours of socializing. The other dogs will teach him things you haven't been able to, about self control and respect for authority. He'll get a lot of stuff out of his system and be utterly exhausted when you pick him up.

Socialization with the world: It's easier to leave a dog at home when he's difficult to take out in public. But to help him, you must push beyond your (and his) comfort level. Get a Gentle Leader head halter (for control) and a short leash, and start going for short walks in town. Five minutes in the grocery store parking lot. Five minutes around the block by the library. Five minutes around the high school track. Gradually you'll be introducing him to more and more distractions and teaching him that he can handle them--that he MUST handle them--because you require it.

More exercise: Yes, it's hard to exercise them when they're difficult to walk on a leash. Do it anyway. With the right tools (Gentle Leader, short leash) and the right mindset ("We're going to FIX this thing!!"), your frequent short walks will become easier, more gratifying, and longer. No dog can be well balanced without proper exercise. The more the better.

Leadership: Work on your leadership skills. Be FIRM and resolute with your boundaries, rules and limitations. No fudging! Let your dog know you are a person with strong convictions. He wants that in you. Be clear and concise with commands. Follow through. Demand the same type of respect from him that you would from fellow workers or subordinates.

"Inseparable" is not healthy

2009-09-20T21:48:00.001-06:00

Someone recently sent me an email about two nice Labs available for adoption. It was one of those emergency situations where both dogs had to get placed right away.

The problem was that the people wanted the dogs to be adopted TOGETHER. They pretty much insisted on it. Why? Because the two dogs had been inseparable all their lives. They were so dependent on each other that they could not handle the emotional stress of being separated.

What a shame! The owners of these two dogs did them a great disservice by allowing them to become so inseparable. I'm all for family togetherness and unity, but we MUST teach our dogs (and kids) how to be flexible enough to survive if the family, or pack, falls apart.

I've often had families wanting to sign up two dogs for the same class. I discourage it. My advice has always been to take the more difficult of the two dogs through class first...then start changing the way you do things at home, so the second dog can pick up on the new routines. It's not that you can't train two dogs at one time. It's that the dogs NEED to be separated from each other, so they can learn to survive and function independently. Taking one dog to class once a week, and leaving the other behind, is good for both dogs.

The human leaders should always be more important to each dog than the dogs are to each other. If the dogs choose each other's company over yours, something is haywire in your pack. Either dog should greatly value the individual time he or she gets to spend with you. That should be special time, as special as it gets. Ideally, Mom should take Dog A and Dad should take Dog B on separate field trips away from the house. Then reverse the pairings, so everyone gets separate "alone time" with each parent.

Have the dogs sleep separately as well. They can both be in the same bedroom, but should have separate beds or crates.

Take the dogs on separate walks. While it's fun to walk a "brace" of two dogs, the individual dogs will bond more closely with their humans if they go solo with you.

Do everything you can to teach your dogs that they can function quite well without the "other dog" in their lives. This will help them not only if you need to place them in new homes, but also if one of the dogs dies. The grief process will be shorter for the survivor.

Dog jumps on sliding glass door

2009-09-14T22:28:00.005-06:00

Dear Jan, My cousin has a German shepherd dog that has made a mess of their sliding glass patio door. When he's outside and wants to come in, he jumps on the door and leaves big muddy paw prints. Plus, he's shredded the screen door. Any ideas? Brad

Dear Brad,
Many years ago I did an in-home lesson with someone who had a Malamute that did the same thing. When he wanted to come in, he'd jump on the door. The people would run to the door and scold him for it, but then they'd let him in. The dog had the people well trained. The scolding meant nothing to him, and he got what he wanted by jumping on the door.

I asked the lady to bring me a pan of cold water. It was winter. I stood inside, just to the side of the patio door where the dog couldn't actually see me, but he could hear us talking. He wanted "in," so I just waited for him to do his thing. The instant he jumped, I flung the sliding door open, yelled "OFF!" at him and tossed the cold water at him. He was aghast. So was his owner. But it worked. The dog had just learned that something different (and unpleasant) happened when he jumped on the door. I showed the owner how to duplicate the action after I was gone, but she told me later that she never had to do it again; the dog had learned from the one startling experience.

The best way to keep a dog from jumping on doors when asking to come inside is to be there BEFORE he has to ask. Most dogs who do this are indoor dogs anyway (or indoor/outdoor). They prefer to be with their people. So let your dog out to potty, and then meet him as he's returning to the door. He'll "learn" that every time he approaches the door, you'll be there to let him in. He won't need to jump or even bark. If he forgets and starts jumping on the door again, simply surprise him when he makes contact with it...the water is just one method. If you have a screen door that opens OUT (onto the dog), you can bump it open and into him as he makes contact with it. Combine the bump with a growly "OFF!" or a "NO!" and your dog will soon learn to not disturb the door monster.

Dogs learn by a combination of positive and negative reinforcement. Anyone who professes the "all positive all the time" approach has dangerously little understanding of dogs. A negative reinforcement should not hurt the dog, but only startle him so he associates HIS actions with the unpleasant result. You, on the other hand, become the "good guy" who is always there at the door to let him in before he has to demand it of you.

As for shredded screen, check with your local custom screen, awning and window providers. There are super-tough "dog-proof" screens on the market now for situations just like this.

Don't buy Costco dog jerky!!

2009-09-13T13:55:00.004-06:00

It looks good, it SOUNDS good as you read the package information...until you see "MADE IN CHINA" on the bottom of the bag.

Please don't buy the "chicken jerky" and "duck jerky" dog treats at Costco! These are the "Kingdom Pets" brand. The packaging claims that they're USDA grade, made with pure ingredients, nothing evil, and they weren't part of "the recall" back a few years ago.

They're still MADE IN CHINA, and I don't trust the Chinese to put my American dog's health and welfare above their profit. In fact, I don't trust them to consider my dog's health at all. I'm sure they couldn't care less if my dog became ill from eating contaminated Chinese junk food.

While finding the product photos for this post, I did some research on "Kingdom Pets" and found in their FAQ section this very question: "Why does the chicken come from China?" Their answer: because Chinese people prefer to eat dark meat over white meat, so they save all the white meat for these dog products rather than waste it. Excuse me for being skeptical, but this sounds like a lame, defensive statement. If their product is good, they wouldn't need an upfront defense.

China is not our friend. It's hard to avoid "Made-in-China" gadgets, but it's easy to avoid Made-in-China products that we use on or in our bodies (or our pets' bodies).

Costco tends to listen to its patrons. Do your pets a favor and let Costco know you don't want Chinese-made pet products, particularly food, in their stores any longer. Here's a link so you can email them today:
https://costco.egain.net/system/selfservice.controller?CONFIGURATION=1001&PARTITION_ID=1&CMD=STARTPAGE&USERTYPE=1&LANGUAGE=en&COUNTRY=us

Your dog sheds too much?

2009-08-28T11:39:00.004-06:00

It sounds way too simple, but your vet will tell you the same thing: the best way to reduce your dog's shedding is to IMPROVE his diet.

Shedding is normal; we all do it. But EXCESSIVE shedding is just as serious to your dog as clumpy hair loss is to you. There's something wrong with your system when it happens. It's a SIGNAL that something needs fixing from the inside out.

If your dog is subsisting on grocery store or feed store dog "feed," or even if he's eating a nationally advertised brand, he's not getting the nutrition he needs for internal health and external sheen. So you can put up with the shedding and continue complaining about it...or you can fix the problem. Your dog would rather you fixed the problem. His life would be happier, he'd feel better, he'd itch less, and he'd probably require even fewer trips to the vet.

A truly "good"dry food is going to be made with human-grade ingredients. It will contain no fillers, no additives, no color enhancers, and no chemical preservatives. It will smell clean, not like rancid grease. It will be highly digestible, so you feed less of it and your dog poops less. It will be delicious to even your finicky dog, because it's made with the same foods that humans eat.

Flint River Ranch is one of those foods. I've fed it to my own dogs with total confidence and wonderful results for eight years. A 20-pound bag of regular Flint kibble costs $32.99, and that includes the shipping and delivery to your door. Check out the rest of the prices and formulas at my website, www.myflintriver.com. (Note: you'll see my picture on this website. If you don't see my picture, you're at the wrong website.) I can even set up automatic shipments at whatever interval and volume you choose.

The food comes from Georgia, where the company headquarters are located. Flint River Ranch Pet Food has been around since 1992. It has never been recalled. It's not sold in stores...only through distributors like me. This saves on national advertising, and the company puts this saved money back into the quality of the ingredients.

Flint River Ranch has been voted numerous times as one of the top 10 holistic dog foods in the country. It's affordable and available. Just contact me! And stop buying so many vacuum cleaner bags!!

Click here to order! And thank you!!

"Randomize" your dog's life

2009-08-28T10:47:00.008-06:00

Photo: This dog's been taught to handle random events with a cool (?) head.

While routine is important to the well-being of all dogs, it's equally important to teach them to handle "random events." A truly balanced dog is one who can handle changes in routine as if the changes themselves are routine.

Lizzie's the best dog I've ever had, partly because she had a genetic predisposition to being an ideal companion dog, but also because I exposed her to everything from the day I got her when she was 5 months old. She went to classes and work, accompanied me to every social event, walked scores of miles at my side, met hundreds of dogs, and put up with our varied work and play schedules. If my life (or hers) got turned upside down tomorrow, I'm confident she could handle it because she's become "flexible."

Some of you may be lucky enough to have a similarly portable companion dog who goes everywhere with you, takes everything in stride, and is basically unflappable whether you're at a family reunion, shooting range, dog show, department store, or RV park. While many of these dogs are born easy-going (i.e., it's their "nature"), others are a product of the "nurture" side of behavior development. They were carefully and thoughtfully exposed to literally everything imaginable while they were young.

Older dogs can learn to handle random events too. (Yes, you can teach an old dog new tricks.) Whether we're talking puppies or geriatric dogs, there's one very big prerequisite to your dog's ability to handle "the world." He needs a leader to show the way.

Let's say you have a nine-week-old puppy and you're concerned that the vacuum cleaner will traumatize him. Should you put him in another room where he can't hear or see it? Should you talk to him about the vac and show it to him and tell him not to be scared when you first turn it on? Or should you just put him in his crate some distance away from the vac, and leave him there so he can see you while you go about your NORMAL business? I opt for the latter. Hiding and overprotecting our dogs from everything will not teach them to handle "random events." Trying to coddle them through scary situations won't work either; in fact, it will only make them more nervous. Being a strong, confident leader, however, who takes the vacuum cleaner in stride--and who is actually in control of this perceived monster--will demonstrate to the dog that you are to be trusted. If Leader isn't projecting fear of a situation, the dog knows he doesn't have to fear it either.

Leadership will always be the most important element you can bring to your relationship with your dog. When you project leadership--confidence, control, level-headedness, consistency, and trustworthiness--in all your interactions with your dog, the "random events" of life will simply become routinely interesting days for him!

Elderly folks should not have puppies

2009-08-20T13:17:00.007-06:00

Photo: Older people have thin skin, which is very susceptible to bites and scratches from rambunctious puppies.

Okay, since I am soon to be considered "elderly" myself, I write this with a lump of conscience in my throat. I know I'm making a blanket generalization when I say, "Elderly folks should not have puppies." But, dagnabbit, someone needs to say it. In this case, political incorrectness may save some lives and a lot of heartache, so let's just tell it like it is.

Countless times over the past 20 years, I've been called to senior citizens' homes to help them deal with puppy problems. I try to give each situation the benefit of the doubt, and hope for divine intervention to make the relationships work out. But usually before I leave, we have discussed who will take the dog in the event the elderly owners are no longer able or willing. It's something that needs immediate arrangement, because things can go south pretty rapidly in these situations. There must be a plan in place for who will take the dog, and all parties should be in agreement about this.

It would be much simpler to just encourage elderly friends and relatives to get an older dog instead of a puppy.

All too often, an elderly person will adopt (or be given) an adorable puppy who, at age 7 weeks, loves being held and stroked. That phase usually lasts no more than two weeks. By then the puppy is ready to explore the household, use its teeth on human skin, and learn to "ignore commands" that he hasn't even been taught yet. Add to these the challenges of housebreaking and exercising a young pup, and the problems are compounded.

Elderly people often have very thin skin. Many take blood thinners that compound the problem of minor wounds from puppy teeth. Senior citizens will show me their forearms and wrists as if they're displaying battle scars. They're scratched, bruised and covered in Bandaids, all from wounds inflicted by that cute, playful little puppy. Mind you, every puppy can be taught to avoid common behaviors like play-biting, nipping and jumping up (which can potentially knock an older person to the floor), but training a young dog not to do these things requires fast reactions, an eagle eye, and good hearing. Like it or not, those are not attributes generally assigned to the elderly.

So many "war stories" come to mind...the woman with Alzheimers who forgot she'd left her Dalmation puppy at the boarding kennel...the man who landed in the hospital with infections from puppy-inflicted scratches on his arm...the woman whose large puppy pulled her so hard on the leash that she injured her back...the woman who was repeatedly knocked down by her exuberant Labrador pup....the woman whose pup would never be housebroken because the she wasn't quick enough to catch her in the act or get her outside when necessary...the man whose puppy barked so much that his friends no longer wanted to come visit him.

Older dogs, while challenging at times, do not pose these problems to elderly owners. Older dogs are good for lowering blood pressure; puppies tend to heighten it! Older dogs know the rules or are eager to learn them. They're truly appreciative of the good things in life. They're lower maintenance and more content to just lie next to you and get stroked...like the seven-week-old puppy did for one whole week.

Choose an adult dog instead of a puppy if...

You are able to walk less than a mile every day at a pace of 18 minutes per mile.
You are prone to extreme joint or back stiffness
Your skin tears and bruises easily.
You have substantial hearing loss and do not wear a hearing aid.
Your vision is poor.
Your reactions are slow, as when getting up to answer the phone.
You have days when you are bedridden or housebound due to ailments.
You do not have family or friends lined up to take the dog if you're no longer able to care for it..
You've never had a dog before, or raised one from a puppy.
You are short on patience.

Shelters are full of older dogs. Bypass the puppies if you're not up to one, and pick an adult companion with whom you can truly relate.

Deer can kill dogs...and people!

2009-08-19T22:08:00.002-06:00

The doe in the driveway looked harmless, but now we know differently. So does Lizzie.

My dog had been poking around for a squirrel in the bushes at the edge of the driveway when suddenly a doe blasted out of the brush, kicked Lizzie in the groin, then head-butted her, and then chased her toward our barn. I stood watching, aghast, trying to process what I was seeing.

Apparently the doe had a fawn tucked in the ferns and wanted Lizzie to keep out. So instead of waiting for Lizzie to stumble upon the fawn, the doe turned aggressive and charged Lizzie, taking her totally by surprise.

We didn't realize the extent of her injuries till five hours later that night when Lizzie became lethargic and shocky. Her gums were pale and tacky, she had minor swelling in her abdomen, and she could hardly move. An emergency call from the vet assured us that she'd probably do okay till morning, when we could bring her in to the clinic. In the meantime, we iced the swelling and dabbed triple antibiotic ointment on the deep scratches at the inside top of her hind leg.

Next morning's x-rays revealed no broken bones. It was just a soft-tissue bruise. Lizzie recovered completely after a day's rest, and got the vet's blessing to run an agility trial that next weekend.

We now realize the deer that once seemed "friendly" as it followed us up and down the driveway on daily walks was actually stalking us...laying down her boundaries. It was a good eye-opener for us. Did you know that whitetail deer kill more humans than any other animal in this country? Their strikes and kicks are hard enough to kill people, and they do.

Lizzie was lucky Her experience also taught her humans to be more careful in the woods too, especially during fawn season.

Thanks for coming back

2009-08-19T21:50:00.003-06:00

Thank you to all you Flint River customers for coming back to the food your dogs love best.

Over the past year some of you strayed away to experiment with other brands that were supposedly just as good but less expensive. By now many of those folks have returned to Flint River Ranch, after being disappointed by their dogs' overall health, lack of enthusiasm, and virtually no cost savings with those other brands.

The president of Flint River Ranch recently sent out a letter to all the distributors and told them that Flint River Ranch sales were actually UP in the past two months...despite our shaky economy...primarily because customers who had gone elsewhere were returning to Flint River Ranch for their pets' food.

You won't find a more healthful food for anywhere near the price of Flint River Ranch. All natural, no fillers, human-grade ingredients, oven baked for high digestibility, absolutely delicious, and delivered to your door via UPS. Order at my website today and you should have your food in about 5 business days or less. Your pets will thank you for coming back to the "good stuff." Click here to order!

Dogs teach us to age gracefully

2009-08-03T11:22:00.002-06:00

Note: I wrote this exactly two years ago and just found it while cleaning out some old files. This is its first posting at Dogtalk. --JM

3:15am on a warm night. Something awakens me. The sound of the breeze through the open windows? The faint bark of a small neighbor dog down the road? Maybe just the overall peacefulness in this room.

I'll get up for a drink of water. I listen before swinging my legs out of bed. He's down there on the floor in the blackness, next to me, and the last thing I want to do is bump him and disturb the peace he's finally demonstrating by his stillness.

It took him a long time to get settled tonight. Arthritis and the stress of aging are taking their toll. Lots of restlessness, heavy panting, turning in circles, groaning as he finally flops down, and then getting up and starting the whole process over again. It's the same procedure I go through when I'm trying to get my pillows adjusted "just right." Sometimes there simply is no "just right,” and attempts to improve a situation just lead to frustration and more restlessness.

But he's quiet now, finally. I can hear his deep, rhythmic breathing. I reach an arm down to gently locate his positioning and determine where his head is and where his legs are. My hands make contact with a body that feels almost foreign to me. So different from what I've felt for most of the past 11 years with him! I touch his hip...or is it his shoulder? The hair is shorter, sparser, courser these days. His body has lost so much of its muscle tone and definition that I can't even tell which quarter of him I'm feeling! I can identify nearly every bone directly under the skin. My hands slide up his body until I locate his neck, that one area still so soft and plush and full, and I gently massage the skin for a moment before finally getting the courage to lower my legs to the floor. I know where he is now, and can get up without disturbing him. As my feet land and I stand up, I realize, ironically, that he is so restful at this moment that hardly anything could disturb him. These days, when he's out, he's really out. I could have stepped on him and he'd scarcely stir. For that, I am grateful.

He's leaving me. He's fading away, ever so slowly. It's more than just muscle tone. It's his mind, too. While generally healthy, he's also very elderly. His cognitive abilities are decreasing. He hears selectively, if at all. His priorities have changed. Meals and naps are his main interests. He must get up now, almost every night, and be let outside to go to the bathroom. Negotiating the doggy door by himself is difficult, so we patiently get up to help him whenever he needs it. This is the least we can do, in exchange for 11 wonderful years of his service to us as a watchdog, award-winning athlete, and companion extraordinaire.

The aging process is so humbling, and yet so graceful and natural. Our dogs teach us what to expect for ourselves, and how to tolerate our own "winding down" experience. They say, "Accept yourself. Enjoy what you can. Wherever you are, be all there. Each day and each moment is a gift to be relished to the fullest extent. Become childlike again."

My old dog is still slumbering as I return to bed. Once again, I reach down to locate him. I stroke his front leg, down to a big paw which I cradle in my hand for a moment. I think about all the hundreds of miles of mountain trails and dog show parking lots those paws have negotiated with me. About all the motel rooms and travel adventures we've shared. About all the unusual and challenging things I've asked those paws to do for me over the years. And about how faithful and unwavering they have been in their devotion to me.

For most of his life, I was my dog's teacher. Now he teaches me. Age gracefully, and with gusto. Be proud of a life well lived. Look forward to an eternity of exploring the universe.

Rest well this night, my old friend. And thank you for showing me the way.

Food that tastes like TREATS!

2009-07-19T22:32:00.003-06:00

Jan, I've started my dog in agility training, and we're using treats. However, he's not interested in the biscuit pieces I've bought him at the grocery store. I've seen your dog respond so well in class to the treats you use. What are you giving to her?" Michele

Michele,
It's plain old Flint River Ranch Original Puppy & Adult Kibble...basically the same thing she gets for dinner. It tastes so delicious to dogs that they think it's like candy! I like it because of its non-uniform crumbly texture. The pieces are all different shapes and sizes, so it keeps Lizzie interested.

Dogs consider Flint River Ranch more like a treat because it tastes more like "human food." It's made with real chicken meat and fresh grains. Grocery store dog biscuits are made with low-quality junk "meat byproducts," sawdust-like fillers, and chemical flavor enhancers.

Even though I've bought Lizzie some expensive all-natural, moist and chewy treats made with liver, salmon and the likes, she still prefers the size, taste and crunch of a piece of Flint River Ranch kibble! When I'm training for agility or obedience, I simply fill my bait bag with this stuff, which is her "regular" food. No grease, no smell, no gooey stuff in my pockets. Just clean kibble.

My agility students often come to class with poor quality treats and their dogs are disinterested. On countless occasions I've given them a handful of Flint River Ranch to try, and their dogs light up. It's a lot cheaper than buying a little bag of junk treats too!

Try a bag, for food or for treats. Order it right here, from me, and I'll have UPS deliver it to your doorstep in about 5 days: www.myflintriver.com.

Sam has a friend with cancer

2009-07-19T21:59:00.003-06:00

Sam is a soft-coated Wheaten Terrier who lives in Yakima. This is the story of Sam and his friend Gus, who has cancer.

Sam's mom says...
"For months our neighbors with their German Shorthair and Scottie dog have stopped their morning walk in front of our house to wait for our Wheaten to come out and greet them. Sam mainly gave his attention to the Pointer. One recent morning he only greeted the Scottie, smelling around his neck and then laying down beside him and leaning on him. It was such an unusual thing, none of us wanted to talk - we just watched the dogs. I saw tears in the owner's eyes as she told us her Scottie had just been diagnosed with cancer. Now we watch each morning as Sam sniffs the area of the tumors, lays down next to him, and leans in as if he is willing Gus to live. We find this so amazing."

To be amazed, particularly in this very cynical world, is to be simultaneously humbled and blessed. It is amazing, in itself, that dogs can deliver this gift to us better than most people can.

When other dogs ruin your walk...

2009-07-19T21:17:00.004-06:00

Jan,
I like to take my Lab for an energetic leash walk every evening in our neighborhood. Lately, however, we've been accosted by other dogs that are running loose. These dogs belong to neighbors who feel it's okay to let their dogs run outside unrestricted by leashes or fences. It hardly seems fair that I'm being the responsible dog owner and my dog is the one who gets harassed by these nuisance renegades. The other night one of them even ran up and bit my dog on the hind legs. The owner came out and got the dog, but didn't even seem upset at what had happened. How should I handle these situations?
Pam

Pam,
It's too bad that a few irresponsible dog owners ruin it for the rest of us and put our dogs (and ourselves) at risk of bodily harm. Here are some practical tips on how to handle those situations.

When you see a strange dog approaching, assume it is NOT friendly, even if it's a happy-go-lucky Lab like your own. YOU immediately become the assertive pack leader. YOU step out between your dog and the approacher and assert yourself with strong, confident body language and a loud, deep, growly word or two. "Go on!" or "Get!!" usually work well. Make it loud enough so all the neighbors on the block can hear you. In so doing, you may attract the attention of the dog's owner or a passer-by, just in case you need assistance.

Ninety-nine percent of the dogs out there will turn tail and run when they confront a "big meanie" like you. Even an assertive dog isn't looking for a fight with a mama bear.

Don't feel guilty about scaring the wits out of some sweet dog who just wanted to say hi. You are within your right to ward off a confrontation now. You can kiss and make up later if you want.

Do not rely on your own leashed dog to handle the situation. It's up to you. It's your job to take on the strange dog. If that means squirting it with pepper spray or a squirt gun with vinegar water, so be it. If that means kicking the dog away from your dog, (because yelling didn't stop it) then do it.

When the incident has passed, try to locate the owner and explain the situation; she may have been unaware of the problem. If this doesn't work, report the at-large dog incident to the authorities. Meanwhile, face the fact that you're going to have to walk your dog somewhere else. Drive to a nearby park or other safe walking area. No, it's not fair that you should have to pay the price for other dog owners' stupidity. But no one ever said that being right was easy.

Your dog's equivalent to "Facebook"

2009-07-09T22:45:00.005-06:00

My dog Lizzie has discovered the cyberspace method of connecting with all her old dog friends. She now spends a couple hours each day perusing "Buttbook." Here she is, working on her own profile page. (My clever husband, the human behind the "Buttbook" idea, has suggested that dog computers should have, instead of speakers, little scent-o-meters that emit those signature smells to indicate which dogs are online!)

Dogtalk

Bloody Footprints

Dogs don't "get even"

Re-naming your dog: Should you do it?

Miracle Drug for Dogs

How often should I bathe my dog?

Dog humps husband's ear

The BIG QUESTION

He peed on me!!!!!

Point/Counterpoint: You Decide

Thanks for the Joplin donations

Tornado dog crawls home on broken legs

Sorry, but your dog IS fat!

Lizzie's New Treat

Antlers & Bully Sticks now available here! NO FOOLING!!

Dog Motel Etiquette

How to dog-sit for your friends

Time for an ID Check

Her itching has stopped!

No excuses for your dog's behavior

One Supplement We All Need

True Confession: Puppy's First Night Home

Don't forget "Mr. Brown" this Christmas!

Add this to your errand list

Chesty's story

How to make your own dog cookies

Hostess Gifts for Dog Owners

Does your dog really need clothes?

Keeping a dog house warm

Dog needs a snooze button

Sadie's autistic!

Contest: Free Sweatshirt

Stubborn dog? Not hardly!

First Aid Kit is essential for travel with pets

Preventive surgery can save your dog's life

Hands-free Praise

Why I've Been Silent for 3 Months

Head halters for difficult-to-control dogs

Playing or Fighting? Know the Difference!

Icky-poo or Okay?

Mother Bear Rises Up

Lunging dogs need proactive leadership

New and better tick prevention!

Active Ingredients

Other Ingredients

Total

Vectra 3D®

Fast-acting protection against fleas, ticks, mosquitoes, lice, mites and sand flies.

Dog grief or human grief?

Scrabble for Dogs

Best shedding tool for most dogs

How badly do you want it?

No Excuses Accepted!

Help for the easily traumatized dog

How do you teach a dog to ask to go out?

Are off-leash dog parks safe?

What's in YOUR First Ten?

Your dog, the mind reader

George Bush, Dog Dad

Wanted: Your Dog for Nursing Home Visits

Before you can do that, you must do this...

The Truth About Dog Toys

Hold the turkey and gravy!

Help for Loose Stools

Slow poisoning

In Memory of Audrey

Tarter buildup in small dogs

"Don't Eat My Finger!"

Achy joints? Try this!

Consistency: Is it humanly possible?

Crippling with kindness

Hey Mutts! Welcome to AKC!

Barksolver MIGHT work for you!

Dog's behavior ruins vacation

More barking problems

"Inseparable" is not healthy

Dog jumps on sliding glass door

Don't buy Costco dog jerky!!

Your dog sheds too much?

"Randomize" your dog's life

Vectra 3D^®